No fuel to cylinders. None. Zip. Nada. Dry plugs.

[Guest]

I've never seen this bike run, I bought it non-running. All of my compression values are at least 100 psi so I took the effort to rebuild the carbs.

79 GS1000L Mikuni VM carbs and an 80-style no-lever petcock
Rebuilt Carbs
All new carburetor o-rings

After this, it would sputter here and there but it wouldn't run, the tees were leaking like crazy and the petcock was rigged open. The fuel that was leaking was red, so I decided to recoat the tank as well. I took the carbs off again.

Discovered 3 fuel mixture screw tips were broken off. Got the tips out and replaced all 4.
New intake boot o-rings
New aluminum fuel-Ts and o-rings.
Replaced the petcock. Confirmed that sucking on the vacuum hose opens the valve.
Set all fuel screws at 3/4 out and air at 2 out.
Did a POR-15 fuel tank coating. (Really damn nice, by the way)
Adjusted all four slides so that the idle position was all the way lowered.

Now it won't get a drop of fuel to the cylinders. I believe I have gas in all 4 float bowls, but NOTHING is getting to the cylinders. Crank, crank, crank, crank all day long, but the plugs are still dry.

I did note that the #3 line, which is supposed to be the vacuum for the petcock, had vacuum the first time I tried to start it. This time, it doesn't appear to.

[rustybronco]

I believe I have gas in all 4 float bowls,

Well do you or don't you have fuel in the float bowls?

[lemonshindig]

#1 overflowed out the overflow tube a couple times, so I'm sure there's fuel there. It must need a float adjustment. #4 I just barely cracked the drain screw on, enough to see it drip.

I can crack the four screws tomorrow and confirm each of them drips, but that doesn't tell me how much is in the bowls, just that there is some.

[rustybronco]

The #1 carb overflowing tells you there is something wrong. Take the carbs off, 'clean them properly', make sure all the internal passages are unobstructed and they have the correct jets installed, set the wet float levels, adjust the pilot screws to 1 turn from lightly seated, make sure the bike has spark, set the point gaps, adjust the timing and try it again.

Oh and before you say you already had the carbs apart twice before, anyone who rebuilds the carbs THEN finds out the fuel screw tips are broken off didn't pay enough attention to ensure everything is as it should be.

You 'cannot' do a partial repair and expect success. You must make sure all systems are correct then your odds will vastly improve.

[SqDancerLynn1]

DID you install the air box and choke cable ? Never start without it.

[lemonshindig]

DID you install the air box and choke cable ? Never start without it.

Yes. The air filter I have though is too big and doesn't fit the air box snugly.

[GateKeeper]

I was going to say something, but after reading this thread 2 times, I have decided to keep my mouth shut....

.

[tkent02]

I was going to say something, but after reading this thread 2 times, I have decided to keep my mouth shut....

.

Good plan...

[Nessism]

The best way to check for fuel height in the floatbowls is to MEASURE it. Odd concept for even veteran GS owners, but clearly described and stated in the factory Suzuki service manual. Measure fuel level and you will KNOW for a fact that your float needle and seat is working correctly and the float height is set properly. That may not fix the bike entirely, but you will then know what the problem is NOT.

[tkent02]

How much time has each carburetor spent in the dip bucket?

[GateKeeper]

I was going to say something, but after reading this thread 2 times, I have decided to keep my mouth shut....

.

Good plan...

Well I am glad you agree with me.....

.

[lemonshindig]

The best way to check for fuel height in the floatbowls is to MEASURE it. Odd concept for even veteran GS owners, but clearly described and stated in the factory Suzuki service manual. Measure fuel level and you will KNOW for a fact that your float needle and seat is working correctly and the float height is set properly. That may not fix the bike entirely, but you will then know what the problem is NOT.

That is interesting. I'll look into it, thanks.

-Matt

[lemonshindig]

How much time has each carburetor spent in the dip bucket?

None; I dissembled each and boiled them in pine sol for 15 minutes based on the recommendations of a restorer who I buy parts from.

I'm going to check the floats/fuel level, and if those check out fine then redoing the carbs is probably all that's left. I will definitely soak in solvent if I need to repeat the cleaning, but based on the quality of work he was showing me, I had enough faith in the pine sol method to try it.

[Nessism]

Time proven carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature. Also a list of things to watch out for in the Newbie Mistakes thread.

[tkent02]

None; I dissembled each and boiled them in pine sol for 15 minutes based on the recommendations of a restorer who I buy parts from.

I'm going to check the floats/fuel level, and if those check out fine then redoing the carbs is probably all that's left. I will definitely soak in solvent if I need to repeat the cleaning, but based on the quality of work he was showing me, I had enough faith in the pine sol method to try it.

No matter how you do the actual dipping, you need to ensure that all of the tiny passages are clear afterwards. A spray can of carb cleaner with it's red straw will do. You need to visually inspect the spray pattern around the pilot jet area, several transition holes from the pilot jet into the carburetor bore, the holes in the side of the choke intake pipe, in short all of the air and fuel passages on the whole carb, make sure all four of them are identical. Giving the jets a good going over with the spray is good too, the dip loosens stuff but doesn't necessarily move it out of the way.
You will definitely want to wear safety glasses for this.