Are these carbs off a GS1000 and if so, which model?

[chuck hahn]

Sudco or Sirius Consolidated is where I would start looking.

[rustybronco]

I doubt the part is broken off unintentionally. Usually people break off a portion of the housing so they can remove the factory plug covering the pilot screw rather than drilling the plug and using a screw to remove it.

[Nessism]

Carb sticky has the specs. Easier than looking though the parts manuals...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ad.php?t=73723

[rustybronco]

I looked through that thread. All I found was 1981 GS1000G and 1979 GS1000S. It's been a long day so I probably missed them.

[Kiwi Canuck]

I looked through that thread. All I found was 1981 GS1000G and 1979 GS1000S. It's been a long day so I probably missed them.

The 1980 GS1000ST (or GS1000ET) is not in there, I looked through the entire thread as well.

I think I have the spec's for the GS1000 in one of my supplements.

I will check again.

[Nessism]

Thought I posted this last night but apparently not...

The sticky is missing the 1000E/S info for 1980. My bad on that. Info below suggests the only big difference is the main jets. Should be simple matter to swap them.

[bomber737]

I have a 80 GS1000ET and the correct jets for it are a #40 pilot jet and 107.5 main jet. The air compensation jet in the back in mine is a 190. I am the second owner of my bike and these carbs were never removed except by me so they are jetted as they came from the factory. Also those fuel needle seats are definately aftermarket. The factory ones I pulled out of my carbs had a domed mesh filter on them. There is no value listed for the air compensation jet in any of the spreadsheets so I would use the ones in the carbs. I have a set of GS1100E carbs also and the buterfly valve in those is a 140, the ones in my GS1000 carbs are 135's

[Kiwi Canuck]

Stuck mixture screws

So based on the info provided I went ahead and stripped the carbs ready for cleaning.
I got as far as the fuel mixture screw on #3 carb and it was mashed, and the screw stuck.
I was pondering what my options were including drilling the screw out and even thinking about returning them to the seller, when I remembered that heat may help, even though the slot was almost completely stripped out.

I set the carb on the bottom mounting rail for support and got the bottle of map gas out and went at it, after about 3 minutes I shut off the heat and gave it a cautious turn with my nice new 5.5mm Wera screw driver and it turned quite easily, I was blown away by how well that worked, #4 carb was also stuck and damaged and same treatment and out she came.

That was pretty darn cool to fix what would have been a major PITA in under 20 mins.
I was only able to fit one carb at a time in the Berrymans dip, so I guess it will be a few days before I'm done all of them.

Thanks for all the great information to help with this little side project.