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Carb synch Mikuni

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    Carb synch Mikuni

    I tried to synchronize the carbs today but it was to hard to undo and tighten the locknut so I had to order the special tool for that. Getting them adjusted is easy but have to wait again now before I can tighten up the locknet without turning the screw.

    #2
    I bet Chuck H will be checking out this thread and give some good pointers. I wanted to comment so I would be subscribed to this thread since I am also getting ready to use my new Carbtune for the first time on my VM carbs.
    82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
    80 gs1000s

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      #3
      Shoot some carb spray on them to help loosen the varnish and crud that can jam the nuts a little. Once they are loose, hit again with some spray and run the nut back and forth to clean the threads out.

      I use the long extentions and the 1/4 inch drive ratchet to break them loose initially if the are being tough.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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        #4
        Undoing them was not a problem but making sure the screw doesn't move when you tighten up the locknut requires the special tool that I just orderded. The angle just isn;t right to put a spanner on the nut while tightening up the screw. And with this tool the problems should be over.
        Last edited by Guest; 06-12-2014, 06:18 PM.

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          #5
          And for petrol I just used an old oil container upside down. That will work. Cut a bit out for filling purpose.

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            #6
            sometimes

            Originally posted by Ton1959 View Post
            Undoing them was not a problem but making sure the screw doesn't move when you tighten up the locknut requires the special tool that I just orderded. The angle just isn;t right to put a spanner on the nut while tightening up the screw. And with this tool the problems should be over.
            That special tool is very nice. I still have a little problem with it on my #4 carb though. The synch screw is very close to the throttle cable making it tough to get onto the locknut. It does work with some fiddling though.
            https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
            1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
            1981 HD XLH

            Drew's 850 L Restoration

            Drew's 83 750E Project

            Comment


              #7
              Your threads are full of gunk..clean them and the adjuster wont spin with the nut..and I use my 1/4 drive and extentions on both CV and Vms without a hitch.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                Also (on BS series CV carbs) make sure the spring/ pin that the adjuster pushes against is free. I had one stuck solid in the hole and wondered why I couldn't get any adjustment. Pry a thin screwdriver in there to make sure it moves up and down freely.
                Just an oddball thing to check.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  Your threads are full of gunk..clean them and the adjuster wont spin with the nut..and I use my 1/4 drive and extentions on both CV and Vms without a hitch.

                  But the tool that I buy is cheaper then the 1/4 drive set. Its a choice we have to make sometimes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was assuming youd already have the ratchet and sockets..they are very handy where a bigger 3/8 drive wont fit in.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                      I was assuming youd already have the ratchet and sockets..they are very handy where a bigger 3/8 drive wont fit in.

                      I have the 3/8 drive an dthe 1/2 inch drive. The 1/4 is not one that is worth having for me as it hardly gets used.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ton1959 View Post
                        I have the 3/8 drive an dthe 1/2 inch drive. The 1/4 is not one that is worth having for me as it hardly gets used.
                        I think I use my 1/4 drive the most on my bike and a small little kit with the standard metric sizes that are most commonly used on the bike and they fit in the little storage box on my bike to have at all times ..

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by lrgguy View Post
                          I think I use my 1/4 drive the most on my bike and a small little kit with the standard metric sizes that are most commonly used on the bike and they fit in the little storage box on my bike to have at all times ..
                          There is hardly anything that I can tighten up on cars or bikes with a 1/4 drive. Things like calipers wheels and other engine bits is usually 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Unless you usually do things to the speedo or anything like that

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Cam covers. Stator covers. Clutch covers. Battery box bolts. Seat hardware etc.

                            You didn't happen to own a GS1100GK and live in Wisconsin at one time did you?
                            This area is to be used only for general GS topics. For non-GS related topics, join the Off-Topic usergroup. <b>Technical questions are not to be posted here.</b>
                            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Damn, I haven't used a 1/2 inch drive tool on a bike in a Hell of a long time. Almost exclusively the 1/4 drive, once in a while the 3/8 but it's so clumsy.

                              1/2 inch is for trucks.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

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