No power any where.

[stephen]

1983 gs1100L bike wasn't charging replaced R/R and stator couple weeks ago. just got back to it today bike was turing over lights worked, i started the bike it started hard been sitting a whiles kind of just putting not running last i tried to start it, it started to fire up but starter seemed to kick in/out? as it died.weird. now i have nothing ,batteries charged got power to solenoid from batt, can jump start it with screw driver to test starter for power. works. all fuses are fine even changed them out to be sure there wasn't a weak one. I tested the black plug that the small red wire goes into and seen 6v or so the big red wire same block had 12.56v i have all new ground and pos wire to battery i see nothing burnt ive about removed all the tape from wires and found nothing hidden or damaged. i thought it was the main fuse as i have blew that a couple times past month testing stuff, but its fine. so there is power at fuse block but nothing beyond. my voltage reading may have been wrong it was dark late and i was frustrated.. and ideas what would do that or what to look at i even checked behind headlight all seemed fine.

[Suzukian]

The starter solenoid should be getting 12volts at the thin wire at the starter solenoid. Since you can jump the starter solenoid, and it starts, attach 12 volts directly to the attachment point for the small wire that energizes the coil on the solenoid. If it still doesn't start, you have a bad starter solenoid, it it does start, trace the small wire back to it's source, something may be rubbing, the wire could be corroded, or your starter button in you handlebar switch might need some cleaning up. It can only be one (or more) so many things

[Rich82GS750TZ]

That’s tough to read. We’re not grammar Nazis here, but, wow. Take a breath. Paragraphs are appreciated.

I would take apart and clean the right hand switch that has the run/off switch and start button. I would also take apart and clean the ignition key barrel.

You can test voltage going in and out of these assemblies before you clean and after to see what kind of voltage you’ve picked up. In my case, it was considerable.

Be extremely careful when doing this as both assemblies have springs and small bearings that like to go missing, really quickly. Take very good notes and pics along the way so you put things back together correctly. I suspect you’ll see a lot of verdigris on the copper contacts inside these assemblies.

Lots of opinions on how best to clean electrical contacts on the bike. This is how I do it.:
Naval Jelly painted onto terminals or anything copper with small brush, q-tip, etc.
Let sit for 15 minutes.
Rinse with water. I use a water-pic because I have one. Whatever works.
Repeat naval jelly if still seeing green.
Sandpaper or emory board for stubborn areas.
Dry thoroughly with hair dryer.
Spray with electrical contact cleaner spray. It evaporates and residual moisture.
Just a sprits of Deoxit to coat contacts.
I only use dielectric grease on the battery terminal and a few other places. Others use it everywhere. Its use or lack of use tends to fuel debate. Do your own research.

before:


after:


other electrical cleaning - before:


other electrical cleaning- after:


Deoxit:

[Suzukian]

You can get these switches off of EBAY if yours is too corroded.