R/R wiring Question

[jwebfournow]

Hello all! I hope most are all geared up for the upcoming riding season? Well here goes my question... I have the GS1100GK back that I worked on last year. The owner now wants to sell after the r/r took a dump on him, he's tired of the bike anyway. My question is this, I have a Shindergen SH541-12 r/r from a 1983 Honda Sabre, when looking up the use of Honda R/R's on the GS's it mentions 5,6 wire units. This one I have, technicaly has 8 wires. 3 yellow stator wire, 2 red/white ,2 greens, 1 black. It's mentioned that on the honda's the black should go to a switched source i/e brake light switch, green should go to ground, red to positve and of course the yellows to stator. My question is do I use both greens wired together then to negative side of battery or just one green wire, and the same for the red wires, wire them both together....or just use one? I double checked the stator and looks good 75v ac at 5k on all three legs. Hopefully one of you gurus can answer my question on the r/r.

[posplayr]

apparently it works

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=994748&postcount=159

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I am currently using a similar r/r unit. I put one green wire on the negative battery terminal. I put the other green wire on a good frame ground. I wired both of the red wires together and connected them back into the harness, through the fusebox, to the positive terminal of the battery. The black wire goes to a switched 12v source. And of course, the three yellow wires get connected directly to the stator wires.

You can also split the red wires if you like. Put one into the harness like normal. Then fuse the other (15a) and connect it directly to the positive terminal of the battery.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jwebfournow]

Thanks for the quick replies! Wiring is not my forte', are there any advatanges to splitting the positives? and I don't quite understand when what you mean by running the positives together through the fuse box and on to the pos side of battery? Have a picture? Are you saying to run the wires upto one fuse slot maybe a 15amp then run a wire over too the pos side of battery? If so I guess that would be almost the same as before when splitting and running one of the wire to a fuse then to the pos side of battery

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Connecting the output of the r/r directly to the positive terminal of the battery will bypass the fusebox and other connections which may be corroded, causing extra resistance, heat, and voltage loss.

The standard wiring in the harness puts the r/r output through the fusebox before it goes to the battery. I didn't mean to confuse you. On the new r/r unit, just crimp both of the red wires together and connect them to the wiring harness where the old r/r output was connected. There might be some decent pictures in the r/r replacement guide on my website.



Using the diagram above, just double the green and red wires. You can either join the grounds (green) and hots (red), or split them.

If you run one of the red outputs directly to the positive battery terminal, use an inline fuse. Like this:



Make nice connections using solder and shrink tubing to keep it protected.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jwebfournow]

By golly I think I have it now, thanks again for the information, I kind of like the idea of going directly to the battery in order to take all the original wiring out of the loop. Once again thanks. I guess its time to get to work. On another note, since the owner now wants to sell this bike, do you guys think asking price of $1200 would be fair for a 20k mile bike with so-so paint is fair?

[rustybronco]

In your neck of the woods $1200 might be 'fair to good price' if all the luggage is still on the bike.

do you have pictures of it?

[jwebfournow]

Everything is there, needs a rear tire and a new windshield, and fork seals I just noticed 1 weeping. If it were mine I would probably repaint also.

[rustybronco]

I don't live in Cali. bike prices are a little different around here than what they are in your area. maybe the Cali members will chime in.

are the registration (?) fees up to date on it?

[jwebfournow]

It's non-opped

[jwebfournow]

All done, once again charging just fine, base voltage engine off 12.16, first start 13.6 v @ about 2k rpm, 14.5v @5k rpm, turned off, base voltage @ 12.95,ended up splitting one of the pos to pos side of battery with an inline fuse. Thanks for the help, now to sell it. Have a great one you guys and gals.