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    #1

    No power to coils...

    OK guys, I'm stumped...here's what I got:

    * I just fixed my wires coming out of the R/R that were heated, and starting to fry. I changed the connectors and I was getting good voltage to my coils. (12.32)

    * I went to start her up, and she turned over about 2 times then I heard a electrical pop, then the ignition button stopped working.

    * All lights work.

    * I took the switch apart, it's good and clean

    * No fuses blew

    * the starter has power to both poles

    * Just checked, and now I have no power to the coils when the key is on.

    Where do I look now? Is there an inline fuse that I don't no about??? Or did I blow the R/R? I'm lost...

    Thanks for your time...
    Tags: None
    #2
    Hi,

    Well, a fuse should have blown instead of frying some other part. Take a good look at your fuses and test them with a multimeter. Let's hope your ignitor is still OK.

    See the Electrical Odds and Ends page on my website for tips and troubleshooting.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff
    Last edited by Guest; 04-29-2011, 02:02 AM.

    Comment

      #3
      Thanks Basscliff,

      Already double checked both sides of the fuses...they're good.

      I'll check out your odds and ends...thanks

      You think the ignitor is my next check?

      Thanks.

      Comment

        #4
        Bypass the kill switch and see if you get power to the coils
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
          Well, a fuse should have blown instead of frying some other part.
          Sorry, Cliff, but fuses do NOT blow to protect the stuff that's "downstream".

          They blow because the "downstream" device has already blown and is now drawing more current than it should.

          The fuse is there to protect the rest of the harness from the damaged device.

          .
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          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            Sorry, Cliff, but fuses do NOT blow to protect the stuff that's "downstream".

            They blow because the "downstream" device has already blown and is now drawing more current than it should.

            The fuse is there to protect the rest of the harness from the damaged device.

            .
            Well bother! This doesn't sound like good news for our friend brian.

            There is an ignitor test procedure on my website if you still get nothing after bypassing the kill switch.

            Take off the tank, seat, side covers, etc, and give the harness a good inspection for worn insulation on the wires, melted connectors, etc.


            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff

            Comment

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