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I have the one that Stahgrau ( Matt ) left here a few weeks ago that does nothing on either side. I am gonna open up the case and use the 4 wires and plug to wire in like was decribed earlier.. If this is a sucess i will stash them in to the box and seal it up. Ofcourse making it able to be reopened in case a flasher unit goes bad and needs replaced at some point.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostPersonally, I have always despised the self cancelling turn signals. I had one on my XS650E and it would cancel long before it needed to. It had both a timer and a distance calculator, and it would cancel while I was sitting in the turn lane in Dallas. The GS worked when I got it; it broke during a Fenimore rally. I never bothered to replace it even though Cycle Recycle probably has one. I don't miss it a bit. I only had 2 bikes that had them (out of +15) and I disagreed with the settings on both of them.
Over the last 30 years, I have had 10 bikes with self-cancelling signals. ALL of them have worked (and these bikes have represented the four major Japanese brands). However, I also disagree with the "settings" on ALL of them. But, knowing what the parameters are will help you use them to your advantage. Virtually all of them have not stayed on for what I consider long enough when approaching a left (or right) turn, as I like to start the signal sequence before applying the brakes. This usually means that I have to restart the sequence once or twice before actually making the turn. It's a habit I have gotten into over the years and think nothing of it.
The other complaint I have about their operation parameters is that they stay on too long for a lane change. Usually five to seven flashes should suffice, but my Wing stays on for 10, the GS for 12 or 13 flashes. That means I have to cancel them manually. Again, something I have gotten into the habit of doing over the years.
Yeah, they are minor annoyances, but, after riding with some other people from time to time and seeing how signals are occasionally left on, I will put up with them (the annoyances, that is). The few times that I ride a bike without self-cancelling signals, I have to remind myself to check them after every turn.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Originally posted by Steve View PostWell, Kid, I agree with part of what you are saying, but don't fully understand the rest.
Over the last 30 years, I have had 10 bikes with self-cancelling signals. ALL of them have worked (and these bikes have represented the four major Japanese brands). However, I also disagree with the "settings" on ALL of them. But, knowing what the parameters are will help you use them to your advantage. Virtually all of them have not stayed on for what I consider long enough when approaching a left (or right) turn, as I like to start the signal sequence before applying the brakes. This usually means that I have to restart the sequence once or twice before actually making the turn. It's a habit I have gotten into over the years and think nothing of it.
The other complaint I have about their operation parameters is that they stay on too long for a lane change. Usually five to seven flashes should suffice, but my Wing stays on for 10, the GS for 12 or 13 flashes. That means I have to cancel them manually. Again, something I have gotten into the habit of doing over the years.
Yeah, they are minor annoyances, but, after riding with some other people from time to time and seeing how signals are occasionally left on, I will put up with them (the annoyances, that is). The few times that I ride a bike without self-cancelling signals, I have to remind myself to check them after every turn.
.sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
_________________
'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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Wow, I guess I'm just lucky that I don't have one and have to turn them off on my own every time, usually as soon as I straighten up the bike from the turn. Course they go on about the same distance beforehand as if I'm in the cage.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Matchless
Chuck, I hope you do no mind a quick hijack.
If anyone has any interest in the later 1980 cancelling unit, I have quite a bit of detail and can start a new thread on that if wanted.
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koolaid_kid
Steve, I think it is just what you are used to. Out of all the bikes I have owned, this is only the second one with self canceling signals, so I have been conditioned to turn it off manually. It's not a big deal to do, and I really disliked having to figure out whether it was going to cancel when I wanted it to or turn itself off before I was ready for it to. Now that it broke, I am back in full manual mode and happy as a clam. When I rode Brian's bike I was back in the "did it cancel?" mode and it was once again irritating. Al even lectured me on how they work because they were cancelling before I wanted them to cancel. Grrr.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by sedelen View PostWas thinking last night, if there was some way to wire in the second generation TSCU, that would be a blessing as they're reliable, fairly common, and not that expensive.
"Dale will take it from you to add to his mounting collection".
I've a spare 80-up TSCU and I think I just may have a few spare leads to pilfer . then it could be connected up to the 78-79 models without having to cobble up the stock wiring harness.Last edited by rustybronco; 08-04-2011, 09:53 AM.
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Andre if it can be fitted to the 78 1000 E i would like to get it...anyone else know if i can hook it into the skunk???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Chuck I don't know how far you have checked out your' unit. I had two fail, and it turned out to be a bad distance counter in the speedometer. When I unplugged the wires to the reed switch in the headlight housing, both units started working normally again when I tested them, except they are manual canceling without the counter.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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I have no idea what your talking about. AND when I take the TSCU out of the Cooley and plug it in it works just fine. So I doubt its any reed sensor thingy.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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What I'm talking about is that a bad distance counter can keep the turn signal unit from operating properly, it's part of the circuit and can be unplugged in the headlight. If it works properly out of the bike, it is likely the reed switch (distance counter) could cause the problem. It's in your speedometer and connects to the TSCU with two connectors in the headlight bucket.Last edited by OldVet66; 08-04-2011, 10:55 AM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Oldvet66...The unit DOES NOT work out of the bike or in the Cooley. The Cooley one works when i plug it into the skunk the same as it works in the Cooley..both blink. So this is telling me that the reed switch is a moot point..am i correct? I dont use the self cancelling as i just flick my thumb down and manual camcell anyways. If the skunk one doesnt work in either bike, but the Cooley one works in both, then i am running with it being the TSCU has lost the right side again.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Sorry, misunderstood your wording.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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And another quandry?? As i have read different threads about the failures, i have noticed a disproportionate amount seem to be the right side stops...wonder why this is so? If they made the left circuitry so well, then what explains why the right side sux so bad???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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