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i was told to weld the timing ADVANCE open why is this ? i have a 81 gs1100e
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Dragracing has nothing to do with low end.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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humm
so the gain is?Comment
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Here is the deal. The advance weights can break off from the high rpms that drag bike's turn, so the old school way was to weld them at the full advance to keep everything in one piece. The downside is that a self start bike will kick back when you start it at full advance. With today's racing electronics the timing plate is just a crank trigger to set initial timing with any advance or retard controlled by a programmable computer with inputs for RPM, boost, gear selection, timers, nitrous activation, ect.Comment
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timing
ok i get that well i still start of a started so i think i will leave it alone for noW as grandpa say IF IT ANT BROKE DONT FIX IT LOLComment
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Got a link to your drag bike listed in your sig?Comment
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self start - or remote starting
If you are going to remote start your bike with a roll around starter cart / and 1-1/8" nut on the crank-- AND ---- you have excessive overlap in your cam lobe centers . this is when you want the advance FIXED- you also want the idle above 2000 -- this mod is for full out racing tuned drag engines.
the only reason to have the working advancer is for a onboard self starting combination.
I have a stock advancing unit on my dragbike I rev to 11K every shift . I have a nice modified starter motor for the super high compression.
So you only do it if you have to.SUZUKI , There is no substituteComment
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