New stator and R/R 1979 GS1000L

[Rodman]

Bought some "OEM" replacements made by Ricks. They have factory wiring match and sold as a drop in change over. I had the factory seperates prior.

Stator - P/N 21-303
R/R - P/N 10-202

1.) Does my wiring change look correct?
2.) I'm going to dump all the phillips heads intenal and cover, what is a
good replacement?
3.) Anyone use this setup?

Don't be shy let me know if I made a newbie mistake.

Thanks
Rod

[Steve]

In the factory wiring, the regulator would have been after the rectifier, but your new wiring looks fine.

.

[Rodman]

Steve,

I found my Clymer manual and you are correct. The wiring diagram shows that one leg of the stator goes straight to the head light control switch. Does this mean that there can be ~60V unregulated going here, seems wrong??

I got some new hardware from Fastenal today and will put it back together this week.

Thanks for your input.

[Nessism]

Much better to run all three stator legs directly into the R/R. That out and back loop to the headlamp switch adds resistance, which heats the wires, and causes voltage loss.

[robertbarr]

Wasn't the '79 a 12-pole system? Are 12-pole stators still available?

If you put a 16-pole stator with a 12-pole rotor, you'll get no output. it's a recurring theme. Time to research this before you proceed -- you might need a 16-pole rotor to replace your original.

I know a friend of mine with a '79 750 had that problem.

Oops -- meant 18-pole, not 16.

[posplayr]

avoid the G/W and R/W loop; make indicated changes

[Rodman]

Install went smoothly and back up at ~13.5V. Voltage varies throughout rev range up and down, from what I've seen min 13.4V, max 14.2V and only for about 2 seconds max. I think this is normal???


For robertbarr, the stator is 18 pole.

[Nessism]

Did you wire it like we suggested or use the factory harness?

[Rodman]

I wired this using 2 of the 3 stator legs (posplayr pic) because I didn't want to cut any wires, using the existing wiring.

[Rodman]

If the red/wht wire is a return lead then I probably should connect the third wire of the stator here rather than have them both dangle? I guess this could be validated by taking a voltage measurement at the r/r and harness connection with this changed back to factory connections.

[Nessism]

I wired this using 2 of the 3 stator legs (posplayr pic) because I didn't want to cut any wires, using the existing wiring.

Don't be surprised if the harness melts down because of that handlebar loop. Been know to happen.

[Rodman]

After doing some probing I found that this "return loop" sends the stator volatge back to the recifier so its tit for tat there but this is only when the headlight switch is in the ON position, so I tied the third leg of the stator directly to the rectifier red/wht lead. Now I have to ask what the hell is this loop for? Unless there is another dedicated r/r circuit close to the lamp (operates on 12VDC only) to lessen the current flow through the harness when it is on then not only is this loop of no value it actually degrades the electrical design, wire running to and fro heating the place up while creating the possibilty of +/- shorts throughout. On another note, this also makes the third leg useless unless the headlight is on causing an imbalanced load on the stator. Japanese engineering...