Easy way to clean terminals

[Nessism]

Bumping this back up...

Got me some dirty/corroded connections in the harness and need to clean them. Charging system is not working as it should; using Jim's (Posplyer) modified stator paper checks shows my bike has .65 voltage drop on the positive line.




The fuse box is soaking in an oxalic acid paste sauce (Bar Keepers Friend) as I type. I've used BKF before to clean copper and it works pretty well but is mild. Not sure if it's better than vinegar though. Speaking of vinegar, searched around on the internet and they say adding salt to the vinegar increases it's corrosion eating effectiveness.

Have to figure out how to clean the harness next.

Question: is corrosion on the contact terminals the main concern, or does corrosion down inside the crimps have a large contribution to resistance increase in harnesses?

[madjack57754]

FYI Clorox is very mild hydrochloric acid as is muriatic acid.

[Nessism]

Bit the bullet and bought some muriatic acid. Said to contain 20% HCl.

Cut it 1 to 1 with water and tried it. Works fine but doesn't seem all that much different than the oxalic acid, other than being faster.

Do I have to neutralize this stuff or just water rinse?

[Steve]

Bit the bullet and bought some muriatic acid.
Do I have to neutralize this stuff or just water rinse?

I think the water rinse is enough to neutralize it.

[chuck hahn]

ED see my thread TX750 lives for some pics of how good the vinegar works. I dont think a rinse with baking soda strong water would hurt anything..may not be needed but wont hurt either.

[ekabil]

Clorox the bleach? Bleach is HYPOchlorous acid, not hydrochloric. For what it's worth. Actually bleach is the conjugate base hypochlorite, in water with sodium. Hypochlorous acid is very weak acid. Hydrochloric acid, AKA muriatic acid, is a very strong acid on the other hand.

HCl is used to strip paint off sidewalks, it can dissolve metals (I know it dissolves magnesium and zinc firsthand from chemistry lab) im sure it would clean contacts if used with a brush of some kind but don't soak it in too high a concentration for very long. And make sure it's well ventilated if you are soaking metal in it because when metal is dissolved with HCl, chlorine gas can form and that stuff will definitely kill you.

Personally, in my limited experience, water and baking soda works really well especially on battery corrosion. I also use contact cleaner and a brass brush with good results.

Edit: will definitely have to try vinegar! I'm putting in a new stator tomorrow so while I'm there I have some contacts to clean up

[duaneage]

I replace really oxidized connectors when possible, I also use a pencil eraser and 1000 grit paper. DeOxit D5 is great stuff but expensive.

[Nessism]

I removed the terminals from the plastic shells and dunked them in the acid. Scrubbed them a little with a stainless steel brush too. While the terminals were loose I took the opportunity to pinch the female terminals closed as much as possible. Got everything back together and now my voltage loss on the positive line is .17 volts at 5000 rpm (improved from .65 volts). Charging voltage increased significantly too.

I don't think there is any need to replace the terminals just because they are a little corroded. A little physical scrubbing along with the acid dip worked a treat.

[Riding Again]

I've used navel jelly. Apply it with an acid brush, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe clean with q-tips or damp rag (water). Afterwards I apply dielectric grease in the female part of all connections and reconnect.

Found a small, pressurized can of CRC (website also has permtex) dielectric grease at o'reilly's. Had plenty for the bike and some for the future (like 2.8 of 3 ounces). The pressure was nice to push it into the connections.

[themess]

Unless you know exactly what metal the electrical terminal is made of, and know some chemistry, using strong chemicals can get a person in more trouble instead of removing the corrosion. That is why several companies make electrical contact cleaners. Those + tiny brass brushes + sand paper are probably best for most situations. At least they won't cause harm if used in accord with directions.

FYI Clorox is very mild hydrochloric acid as is muriatic acid.

No, it is not. Read the label. Search the web using the name of the compound listed. Then do the same for hydrochloric acid.

Bit the bullet and bought some muriatic acid. Said to contain 20% HCl.

Cut it 1 to 1 with water and tried it. Works fine but doesn't seem all that much different than the oxalic acid, other than being faster.

Do I have to neutralize this stuff or just water rinse?

Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid. It hasn't been purified as much as stuff used in the lab.

HCl should be neutralized. Flush with water, then baking soda.

...HCl is used to strip paint off sidewalks, it can dissolve metals (I know it dissolves magnesium and zinc firsthand from chemistry lab) ...

And make sure it's well ventilated if you are soaking metal in it because when metal is dissolved with HCl, chlorine gas can form and that stuff will definitely kill you.

Personally, in my limited experience, water and baking soda works really well especially on battery corrosion. I also use contact cleaner and a brass brush with good results.

Edit: will definitely have to try vinegar! I'm putting in a new stator tomorrow so while I'm there I have some contacts to clean up

HCl is attacking the sidewalk more than the paint. HCl won't do much against most metals.

Good ventilation and eye protection are both important using acids as strong as muriatic acid. Some things react with HCl to produce chlorine gas, which is very, very bad for mucous membranes (eyes, nose, lungs).

I've used navel jelly. Apply it with an acid brush, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe clean with q-tips or damp rag (water). Afterwards I apply dielectric grease in the female part of all connections and reconnect....

Naval jelly contains phosphoric acid (so does Coke, but more dilute).

Vinegar contains acetic acid.