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Armchair diagnosis anyone? Possibly overcharging
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Armchair diagnosis anyone? Possibly overcharging
Went for a ride this evening, and noticed some strange lighting behavior. On sustained runs I noticed that the defective bulb indicators for head and tail would illuminate faintly, then go out again when the revs were lower for a while. Another thing I noticed was the headlight getting brighter as revs decreased, such as between shifts. Medium Rpms made the headlight go bright/dim/bright/ dim. Haven't put the meter to it yet but I wanted to get some ideas about what might be going on. R/R is a shindengen from a Honda, and stator is good at last check but I'll certainly check it again.Tags: None
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Riding Again
On the right path to check the stator. Also check the battery, pull, charge and test it off the bike. Sounds funny at first glance that the headlight improves at mid/lower rpms.
However, the fact that the head/tail indicators would be dim then "dimmer" at low RPMs does strongly point to the battery being out of "juice".
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cableguy
Originally posted by tom203 View PostI'd suspect a stator having trouble delivering stable output to R/R as revs go up- R/R attempts to compensate.
BTW, It's a brand new battery, properly charged.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Did you clean up the charging system wiring per GSR recommended practice?Ed
To measure is to know.
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"Armchair diagnosis" is not going to work.
You are going to have to get up out of it and put a meter on the bike.
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cableguy
Did you clean up the charging system wiring per GSR recommended practice?
YES
"Armchair diagnosis" is not going to work.
You are going to have to get up out of it and put a meter on the bike.
True dat, I was looking more for a direction to head than a definite diagnosis. Maybe if I brought an armchair out to the bike I could have it both ways.....
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35665
- Torrance, CA
Simple charging system diagnoses...
1) Check voltage at battery w/engine @ 5000 rpm. < 14.0 V = BAD
Assuming BAD...
2) Disconnect stator from R/R and check AC volts on each stator leg w/engine @ 5000 rpm. < 70 V AC = BAD.
If BAD, replace stator
If Good, replace R/R
This simple flow info ASSUMES: good battery, proper wiring in system
System wiring: the stator must be wired directly into the R/R, not into the factory harness.
The R/R must be properly grounded
The R/R power output must flow to battery with low resistance path
Too many charging system threads here. This ain't rocket science.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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cableguy
Fixed it. The fuse holder between r/r output and battery + was bad. Like melted and charred bad. No idea how it got that way, but it was recycled out of my junk drawer when I improved the wiring. Got a heavy duty rubber weatherproof one at autozone and all is good with 13.1@idle and 14.2@5000 rpm
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by cableguy View PostFixed it. The fuse holder between r/r output and battery + was bad. Like melted and charred bad. No idea how it got that way,
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