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I just got done a few hours ago replacing the original OEM R/R with a R/R out of a 2007 Yamaha,....
...........a Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA,.....just in case!
The old R/R was still working 'ok", but given the history of this being a common weak spot on these old girls thought i would get it done today. It took awhile to find one on ebay, and mine looked brand new off a '07 R1 Yamaha bike. Found the 2-connector set (5 wires used here ) in another ebay listing.....
I spent some time last night doing the preliminary wiring and soldering of the connections to both snap connectors. These are some sturdy and sealed connectors!
This site helped a LOT in showing how the wiring goes: http://roadstercycle.com/index.html Jack's video's are really helpful in getting these wired up to the connectors. Once there click on his videos at the top left of the page. 1st video on that link will get you through it just fine!
I used 10G wire on both + pos and - neg, and went direct to the battery with both of these.
Fitted a 30A "Mini-Fuse" up top on the red (+ pos) wire for easy replacement should the need arise. This fuse can prevent some expensive "smoke",....so don't leave home without it!
The old (now unused) bullet connectors i used heat shrink tubing on to seal them off, and used some electrical tape to keep them together and out of the way. Just a bit of confusion on the old connection with that oddball wire going into the harness! (up to the headlight area,...
)
Finally i just traced the wires from where they come out behind the starter,.......cut the bullets off,..... and soldered 3 male spade connectors onto the stator wires, ....and heat shrunk the ends. I folded the thinner stator wires over once before crimping and soldering them right in the garage. Because of their age, i also lightly sanded the wire strands to get some copper showing. After clamping the spade connectors on in 2 places, they soldered up really nice.
The store was out of the weatherproof type spade connectors, so for now i slid about 8" of heat shring tubing over each wire, and centered each stator connection in the middle. They have a decent friction fit (didn't heat them), but tomorrow i think i'll zip tie all 3 together on either side of the shrink tubing to seal the ends a bit better. Water's not getting in anyway, as the connections are at the top of a gentle curve that leaves each end of the shrink arap about an inch lower. I think i'll leave it this way, and if i ever have to disconnect the stator wires just have to slide the friction fit wrap a few inches either way.
Before i cleaned all my conections several weeks ago, the original OEM R/R was only regulating 12.7 V across the battery terminals. After i cleaned all the conections, it was better,.... getting up to 13.2-13.4 V at about 2K rpm. (2.9 V at idle of 1025 rpm)
The Mosfet FH102AA at an idle of 1025 rpm measures 14.2 V across the battery, and at 2K and higher RPM a pretty stable 14.5 V.
My lights are a bit brighter, and the new horn i put on a week ago might wake the neighbors!
BTW,....This was NOT the simple replacement i read about in BassCliff's experience! http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...eplacement.pdf
The hardest part was getting the old R/R OUT! Mine was in with frozen phillip's head screws, and not the bolts that Cliff had under his battery box.
Back 6 years ago i had picked up another R/R (shunt type, not a mosfet) from Electrosport as i recall. (still have it) Back then i gave up on the new install,....figuring i'd deal with it if the original broke down. But with all the good things to say about these FH012AA ones,.....i got-er-done today!
The entire battery box had to come out so i could get at the screws holding the R/R on, and i also had one screw that holds the left plate on (outside the battery box and attached to it) that i ended up hand cutting a slot into to allow removal with my gun screwdriver set. It has a rachet handle you can add in addition to the screwdriver handle that gives great leverage with a 5" handle at 90% to the screwdriver blade. Even after a liberal application of chain lube to the screw and an hour wait, it was stubborn.
With the battery box finally out, i had to bring it down to my basement where i still have my jewelry "Foredom" flexshaft machine set up. With a small stone separating disc i carefully cut a slot into the top of each phillips screw. The gun screwdriver setup then was able to remove them.
Since i already had the battery box out, i decided to touch up the paint on it, as they tend to get some surface rust on them after all this time. A light sanding of the worst areas and a scrub down in my sink followed by an air dry from my compressor, and the paint could now get a clean base to stick on. I also touched up on a couple of small frame members in the same area, since they were now accessable. The gloss black rustoleum does a nice job here, and the box was dry and put back in within a few hours.
While the paint was drying i ran out for some longer mounting bolts and washers, and was pleased to find the holes on the battery box were close enough to get it mounted right up! One of the holes in the new R/R has a longer "slot" to the mounting hole,....allowing for some variance in hole spacing.
My battery box hole spacing "just" made it, though...........and i'm really liking my "output"!
......when i get some time and daylight tomorrow, i'll get a few pics up.
...........a Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA,.....just in case!
The old R/R was still working 'ok", but given the history of this being a common weak spot on these old girls thought i would get it done today. It took awhile to find one on ebay, and mine looked brand new off a '07 R1 Yamaha bike. Found the 2-connector set (5 wires used here ) in another ebay listing.....
I spent some time last night doing the preliminary wiring and soldering of the connections to both snap connectors. These are some sturdy and sealed connectors!
This site helped a LOT in showing how the wiring goes: http://roadstercycle.com/index.html Jack's video's are really helpful in getting these wired up to the connectors. Once there click on his videos at the top left of the page. 1st video on that link will get you through it just fine!
I used 10G wire on both + pos and - neg, and went direct to the battery with both of these.
Fitted a 30A "Mini-Fuse" up top on the red (+ pos) wire for easy replacement should the need arise. This fuse can prevent some expensive "smoke",....so don't leave home without it!
The old (now unused) bullet connectors i used heat shrink tubing on to seal them off, and used some electrical tape to keep them together and out of the way. Just a bit of confusion on the old connection with that oddball wire going into the harness! (up to the headlight area,...
)Finally i just traced the wires from where they come out behind the starter,.......cut the bullets off,..... and soldered 3 male spade connectors onto the stator wires, ....and heat shrunk the ends. I folded the thinner stator wires over once before crimping and soldering them right in the garage. Because of their age, i also lightly sanded the wire strands to get some copper showing. After clamping the spade connectors on in 2 places, they soldered up really nice.
The store was out of the weatherproof type spade connectors, so for now i slid about 8" of heat shring tubing over each wire, and centered each stator connection in the middle. They have a decent friction fit (didn't heat them), but tomorrow i think i'll zip tie all 3 together on either side of the shrink tubing to seal the ends a bit better. Water's not getting in anyway, as the connections are at the top of a gentle curve that leaves each end of the shrink arap about an inch lower. I think i'll leave it this way, and if i ever have to disconnect the stator wires just have to slide the friction fit wrap a few inches either way.
Before i cleaned all my conections several weeks ago, the original OEM R/R was only regulating 12.7 V across the battery terminals. After i cleaned all the conections, it was better,.... getting up to 13.2-13.4 V at about 2K rpm. (2.9 V at idle of 1025 rpm)
The Mosfet FH102AA at an idle of 1025 rpm measures 14.2 V across the battery, and at 2K and higher RPM a pretty stable 14.5 V.
My lights are a bit brighter, and the new horn i put on a week ago might wake the neighbors!
BTW,....This was NOT the simple replacement i read about in BassCliff's experience! http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...eplacement.pdf
The hardest part was getting the old R/R OUT! Mine was in with frozen phillip's head screws, and not the bolts that Cliff had under his battery box.
Back 6 years ago i had picked up another R/R (shunt type, not a mosfet) from Electrosport as i recall. (still have it) Back then i gave up on the new install,....figuring i'd deal with it if the original broke down. But with all the good things to say about these FH012AA ones,.....i got-er-done today!
The entire battery box had to come out so i could get at the screws holding the R/R on, and i also had one screw that holds the left plate on (outside the battery box and attached to it) that i ended up hand cutting a slot into to allow removal with my gun screwdriver set. It has a rachet handle you can add in addition to the screwdriver handle that gives great leverage with a 5" handle at 90% to the screwdriver blade. Even after a liberal application of chain lube to the screw and an hour wait, it was stubborn.
With the battery box finally out, i had to bring it down to my basement where i still have my jewelry "Foredom" flexshaft machine set up. With a small stone separating disc i carefully cut a slot into the top of each phillips screw. The gun screwdriver setup then was able to remove them.
Since i already had the battery box out, i decided to touch up the paint on it, as they tend to get some surface rust on them after all this time. A light sanding of the worst areas and a scrub down in my sink followed by an air dry from my compressor, and the paint could now get a clean base to stick on. I also touched up on a couple of small frame members in the same area, since they were now accessable. The gloss black rustoleum does a nice job here, and the box was dry and put back in within a few hours.
While the paint was drying i ran out for some longer mounting bolts and washers, and was pleased to find the holes on the battery box were close enough to get it mounted right up! One of the holes in the new R/R has a longer "slot" to the mounting hole,....allowing for some variance in hole spacing.
My battery box hole spacing "just" made it, though...........and i'm really liking my "output"!
......when i get some time and daylight tomorrow, i'll get a few pics up.
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