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Brand new stator, Brand new R/R, still no charge

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    #16
    I havent seen that you've tested the r/r itself. POSPLAYER has an excellent write-up on checking r/r health. I think it's also on Basscliff's "little" site.

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      #17
      how else can you test the R/R besides diode test, and then making sure its grounded and continuous to the battery, just out of curiosity?

      I say just out of curiosity because I finally got mine working! The trick was to make good solid connections and don't wire the RR straight to the battery, I just hooked it in to where the original one would have gone, and all of a sudden Im getting 13-14 volts. So niceeeee. I swear I tried that before but hey if it works I'm not going to question it.



      Edit: started a new thread with attempted diagnosis of starting issues
      Last edited by Guest; 06-20-2012, 01:28 AM.

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        #18
        Well today, after finally fixing the starting problem ( and after fixing the charging problem) the bike is no longer charging the battery. I checked the stator, and looks like there is a short. When I test for resistance between the legs of the stator and the frame I get values from 1-3. On all the legs. I made sure the wires weren't pinched as they wound through the starter area, took them out from around the starter and tested them, and still had a short.

        I guess I'm going to look inside the case, but I don't know what to look for. Its a new electrosport stator. two weeks old. (new RR, new battery as well). How do I tell where the stator is messed up and shorting once its open?

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          #19
          Sure sounds like a poorly wound stator that shorted on itself - did you see this sad tale that I recently posted?


          1981 gs650L

          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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            #20
            Can a stator make 85 VAC on each leg yet be shorted to ground? Something doesn't seem right.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #21
              Originally posted by ekabil View Post
              How do I tell where the stator is messed up and shorting once its open?
              After you remove the stator, measure the resistance between each of the three wires and the 'core' they are wound on. I won't matter much if you find where it's shorting to the frame, it's still shorted.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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                #22
                Maybe the short is in the harness path from r/r to battery. That's why it is recommended to use the direct wire approach. I know your first attempt didn't produce the result you wanted but if you got it to work by using the factory harness then you just eliminated the r/r and stator as the bad parts. Try the direct wire again and run 1 red to fuse box with inline 15A fuse and the other red straight to batt+. For your grounds find a clean spot on the frame that's close to batt-, and that's where you want your grounds to attach. One short single wire will go from there to batt-. Do you crimp with crimpers or just pliers? It makes a difference to use crimpers. Hope that helps!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                  Can a stator make 85 VAC on each leg yet be shorted to ground? Something doesn't seem right.
                  No , but I assumed he had run it a while after the testing phase and it wasn't happy producing current.
                  1981 gs650L

                  "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                    #24
                    Can a stator make 85 VAC on each leg yet be shorted to ground? Something doesn't seem right.

                    I didn't test it for current once I realized it was shorted. Since there was a short I assume it wouldn't make the VAC. Although, now that the battery is charged, I could start it and measure VAC. Maybe I should do that just to prove beyond a doubt that the stator is the culprit.

                    I had stopped somewhere, and when I tried to start it it was really slow, like the battery was low. I measured battery volts, and they were 12.2 and decreasing.

                    Maybe the short is in the harness path from r/r to battery.

                    I found the short with the stator disconnected from the RR, the short was between the stator and the end of the stator wires. There was connectivity between each of the stator's wires and the engine, while the stator was disconnected (and bike off). and I do use crimpers, I've got real good with them lately :P

                    After you remove the stator, measure the resistance between each of the three wires and the 'core' they are wound on. I won't matter much if you find where it's shorting to the frame, it's still shorted.


                    Thanks! I will try that when I open it, which won't be till the replacement (free) gets here in three days. I ask because I don't want to send them this stator and have them test it ok, because then I won't get refunded for it and I'll end up with two stators.
                    Last edited by Guest; 06-27-2012, 05:54 PM.

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