fuel sending unit problems

[Guest]

ok i removed my fuel sending unit and i found the wire on the back was not soldered to the bottom of the round part with 5 bolts
so i soldered it back together put it back in the tank and got all excited to test ride it and ya no it did not work? what did i do wrong because everything else as i saw was hooked up just fine?

[chuck hahn]

You state side??I will pm you a number to call me at...easier to just explain it to you that way instead of 3 days of typing.

[Redman]

ok i removed my fuel sending unit and i found the wire on the back was not soldered to the bottom of the round part with 5 bolts
so i soldered it back together put it back in the tank and got all excited to test ride it and ya no it did not work? what did i do wrong because everything else as i saw was hooked up just fine?

First, check the functionsality of the rest of the system (if you have not already). Connect together the two wires in the bikes wiring harness (yel/blk and the blk/wht)that are suppose to connect to the the sender unit, see if the guage moves to full, and then seperate them, look and see if the fuel gage moves back to empty. If it doesnt move, then the fuel gage is not working. If it does move, well, then fuel guage is working, and can go back to loking at the sender unit.

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[Reaper0001]

ok got it back out and am now cleaning the tank this is what i have
i only saw 2 wires to the fuel sending unit yellow/ black their is no white and black
is it missing do i need to chase something down
here is the unit and the new solder work

[chuck hahn]

As was stated above...jump the wires in the harness and see if then guage works...does it? If so then plug the sender into the harness OUT OF THE TANK and move the arm and visually check that the metal tab thing that slides along the wire coiled thing stays in contact the full range of motion. Use a continuity tester to go from the cover plate to the coil where its soldered on there also to see that current is getting to the coil. Also check the male connectors on the sender wires ..I would redo them and solder those connections as well to ensure good contact.

[Reaper0001]

its not the gauge!! just tested both
i also tested the sending unit and the unit did not react with the gauge at all
whats next?

[chuck hahn]

Read my last post!!!! Ya gotta read the responses and you wont be asking "whats next".

[chuck hahn]

Remove the cover from the unit housing ..3 little bent over tabs. Do the continuity and other checks i laid out above.

[Reaper0001]

i re soldered it and it works like a dream
pluged it in to the bike tested it it works the gauge goes up and down
put it in the tank re installed all parts installed tank and it still works im so glad

first soldering job btw lol

[Redman]

Schematic for 1100G shows yel/blk and blk/wht(ground) wires in the bike harness ... the bike harness, not the sender itself.

Suzuki manaul say:
1 to 5 ohm when full
100-120 ohm when empty



If your sender unit shows complete open (infinite ohms, meter may display "OL" or flash something, same as when leads are not on anything):
Leave one meter lead on one of the sender unit lead, and probe around with other meter lead. Start along the sender unit lead you have other meter lead on. Go along to find where you are loosing continuity (or where you regain continuity). May be at a solder connection like you suspect, or may be at the brush, or in the coil of wire the brush wipes across.

Is difficult to troubleshoot electrcial problems with your eyes (unless something comes completly apart). IS better to you your meter.

Tell us more what you find.

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[Reaper0001]

thank you all for your help on this matter i found a lot of black stuff around the coils i cleaned it out and soldered on new wire and now it works like new