Charging system is dead again.

[jbs80106]

Same experience here too.

No charging. Stator papers indicate failed stator and reg/rect. Ordered from Electrosport.

Replace both, all is good for a while, then failure again. Testing indicated failure of both. Call Electrosport, they're helpful, supportive and the replacement of parts is warranteed for 1 yr.

I got warranty replacements, but while waiting for new stator I bought a claimed 'good', used one on Ebay.

Replaced stator, replaced reg/rect (sent failed one back to Electrosport)...and all was good.

[tom203]

The ohm resistance looks fine between wires on the stator, but when I check between the output wires and the engine case I'm getting around 3 ohm. From what i understand there should be a lot of resistance here,

Yes, this means your stator is no good.

[tom203]

Same experience here too.

No charging. Stator papers indicate failed stator and reg/rect. Ordered from Electrosport.

Replace both, all is good for a while, then failure again. Testing indicated failure of both. Call Electrosport, they're helpful, supportive and the replacement of parts is warranteed for 1 yr.

Replaced stator, replaced reg/rect (sent failed one back to Electrosport)...and all was good.

Apparently, Electrosport has quality issues . I'll take my chances with 30 year old Jap wound stators and a Shindengen R/R

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Connect the three stator output wires directly to the r/r input wires, bypassing that useless loop of wire that runs up to a non-existent headlight switch on the handlebars. Connect the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Clean all electrical connections and grounds, fuse box, connectors, bulb sockets, battery terminals, solenoid, everything.



Use a Shindengen r/r unit (see list in the "compatible" link below, purchase used one from eBay), and a stator from either Caltric (eBay seller) or Rick's Electrics.

Click and Read the following:

Stator Papers
More On The Stator Papers
GS Charging System Health+Quick Test
Compatible Stators and R/Rs
Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test
Cleaning Your Wiring Harness

Fusebox Cleanup

Stator Test

Stator Replacement

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jbs80106]

dunno if still available but there used to be an option for buying honda reg/rect that would work better for our bikes from another GSer....bwinger maybe?

[gearhead13]

I picked up a Shindengen r/r off of a GL1100 from ebay for about $40. Cheaper and way better quality than aftermarket crap. Solder ALL of your connections, R&R ground direct to battery, + wire direct to battery.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

dunno if still available but there used to be an option for buying honda reg/rect that would work better for our bikes from another GSer....bwinger maybe?

A well-respected member, Mr. duaneage, used to sell these kits. He never made much, if any, money on them. He eventually had to stop offering his service. I hope he finds another supplier so he can resume his service. The guy is a prince.

Till then, eBay is about our only choice for the good, used Shindengen units. See the compatibility list on my website. There is also a "how to" guide for modifying them to fit our GS bikes.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[B-rent]

I pulled out the stator and found that the lowest point of the stator was also the hottest. The plastic stuff surrounding the wires was very brittle and cracked off easily. I mailed off both the stator and R/R to have them tested and replaced.

While that is being shipped around I will have time to check all wire connections and go through the carbs/valves.

So the proper way to wire the stator and R/R is to connect all three yellow wires from both stator and R/R together leaving out the red/white and green/white wires that were once a part of the party? That would leave the red wire connected back up with the red and the black directly to the battery?

I never did ask about how to wire this all up the first time I replaced it. I just plugged it all together the way it was before. I want to get it right this time.

Thanks for all your help.

[tom203]

Better late than never. The green/white wire comes from stator and goes up to headlight switch (does nothing on 82 models) and returns as red/white wire to R/R. You want the green/white wire to go DIRECT to R/R and just ignore the red/white wire. Read the charging system stuff at Basscliff's to get lots of good how-to's. Make sure you test everything


Edit; "plastic stuff surrounding wires" ?? was this a dipped stator?

[B-rent]

The wires had a blue coating on them when they were new. It looked black when I pulled it out.

[Toasty]

What kind of riding do you do? My 550 was burning up stators like crazy, despite rewiring, new and clean connections and adding a shindingen R/R. I commuted on it so I was running it at high rpm for hours. I ended up needing to bite the bullet and buy a compufire and ricks stator to fix it.

[tom203]

The wires had a blue coating on them when they were new. It looked black when I pulled it out.

The miracle blue goop- good for concealing winding errors! Here's a pic of a Honda Electrosport stator in process of being BBQ

[jbs80106]

while she's apart and your waiting for stator/reg-rect, might suggest pulling out the starter motor and giving it a clean -- accessible and you're in that area of the motor anyway..

[B-rent]

while she's apart and your waiting for stator/reg-rect, might suggest pulling out the starter motor and giving it a clean -- accessible and you're in that area of the motor anyway..

That is the one thing I really miss about my 750. The carbs come off much easier and you don't have to take them off to get to anything below them, but I love my 550m. The handling and feel is much different between the 78 750 and the 82 550m.

The drive to work every day is 10 miles, so 20 miles every day. I drive it every day unless something like a burnt stator stops me. I'm wondering if I need to start looking for another stator and R/R. How much could I expect to pay for a better charging system?

[gearhead13]

I picked up a Shindengen r/r off of a GL1100 from ebay for about $40. Cheaper and way better quality than aftermarket crap. Solder ALL of your connections, R&R ground direct to battery, + wire direct to battery.

There is info on the site about what R&R's are good