Series Regulator Source SH775

[posplayr]

Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.

I already pointed to this thread that provided the requisite evidence.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=162677

In other posts I showed a drop of approximately 250 watt reduction comparing a SHUNT MOSFET R/R to the CF SERIES R/R.

There are three elements of power dissipation in the GS Charging system.

a.) The electrical load delivered to a standard GS (approx 14 amps at 14.5V) 167.2 Watts
b.) The dissipated heat in the R/R (this can vary significantly depending upon the R/R) e.g. 50-100 watts
c.) The power dissipated in the stator. I estimated there to be a 250 watt differential between SERIES and SHUNT as delivered to the engine as heat going into the oil.

The controlled tests are comparing well know operating characteristics to new operating characteristics following install of the CF on a 1166 built GS1100E.

[Chuck78]

Well all I have to say is that the Shindengen MOSFET units are a good & very affordable alternative to most other units, & the series style is a much further improvement yet, & at a very affordable cost still. Any temperature drop is an added bonus, & they are much easier on the stators regardless of overall effect on engine temps. Also, I am so far very impressed with the quality of Shindengen units, where as some Honda spec replacements, nothing to write home about (although I'm sure there are top notch & sub-par examples like the one I took off of my bike that was regulating too much).

Mechanical watts? Thermal Watts? Or Electrical Watts? This whole conversation always cracks me up. The person who has done research has to defend his evidence against someone who offers none. However the nay sayer does offer to sell you a different model. Funny stuff.

BTW, the block heater in my truck seems to heat up the coolant pretty well at -45C. It is 600w. I don't actually know the heat output in watts, only the electrical power consumption. However resistive heating loads are quite efficient, somewhere around 90%

[duaneage]

Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.

This right here. It's a matter of power dissipation. Even if straight DC was running through the coils it would not be enough to boil the oil. I've run alternators from belt driven motors providing 50+ amps and the case barely got warm.

[duaneage]

Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

I don't think Duane has an 1100E and is basing his presumptions on what he has observed from his 550. Ignoring oil coolers, any 4 cylinder bike is going to have a similar capacity for dissipating heat. Given the hp diff from a small 4Cy putting out 40-45 hp, v.s. a 1100E putting out 130-140 hp there is a marked difference in oil temperature .

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=161397

whatever you say Jim, you're the expert

[tkent02]

It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

The heat from burning gasoline is dissipated through cooling fins in the head and cylinders. Some of it gets into the oil, not much. The stator, with a lot of watts heating it, is cooled only by contact with the oil, and the oil finds it's way eventually to it's own tiny cooling fins.
I have no problem believing the series regulator lets the oil stay cooler, just thinking about it I would think it does since all of these extra watts are no longer there to be dissipated...

If Posplayer says he tested it and it ran cooler I would certainly believe him.

[Chuck78]

Well at any rate, it's much easier on the stator to not be running it at max output nonstop & shorting to ground at 1000 cycles per second. Regardless of its effect on engine temperature, the stator's load & temp. is far less

[robertbarr]

Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

Well, I guess I'll join the Doubting Thomas Club. The PM charging systems on these bikes put out at best 400W. This is a third of what my hair dryer puts out, and I can't imagine any circumstance when this would make a difference in the operating temperature of a gasoline-burning 80+ h.p. engine, considering that a single h.p. is defined as 746 watts.

If it's 'independently confirmed', I'd like to see the details and the control of variables.

[Chuck78]

So I noticed that the 4012941 part number on my SH775BA on my regulator now mostly brings up one that IS NOT what we are looking for, but rather a replacement RM Stator brand MOSFET regulator/rectifier for Can-Am's and Yamaha's that is mostly grey/silver in color as opposed to black on the Shindengens. So be careful not to buy this one if looking for a 3 phase series style R/R. Maybe it is just listed as a replacement for the SH775, but I see a ton of ebay listings when searching for the part # on mine for my wife's bike.

I did find another source for the SH775, search for SH775AA 278002021 for SkiDoo BRP Spyders, also says in the current ebay listing "2011 Grand Touring 600 ACE. This regulator will fit tons of vehicule in the Bombardier line up like Spyder , Outlander , snowmobile and this will also fit some Honda , Yamaha & Suzuki vehicule"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330812941232

[posplayr]

Thank you, I suspected as much.

Duanage is making generalizations and can not accept the truth. On GS1100E's that are hopped up there is a noticeable drop in operating temperature. It has been documented here and independently confirmed.

I don't think Duane has an 1100E and is basing his presumptions on what he has observed from his 550. Ignoring oil coolers, any 4 cylinder bike is going to have a similar capacity for dissipating heat. Given the hp diff from a small 4Cy putting out 40-45 hp, v.s. a 1100E putting out 130-140 hp there is a marked difference in oil temperature .

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.

All good points. I think I like the operating principle of this design more than the actual amount of improvement it will offer. For $65 it was a cheap upgrade from stock, which is what I have right now.

[duaneage]

Why would a RR affect engine temps??

It doesn't. The engine generates far more heat burning gasoline than the stator does generating electricity. Simple physics.

It is a stretch to suggest the stator raises oil temperature above what the engine does no matter what the regulator was doing. Other bikes have a dry stator not bathed in oil that use the same regulator (Honda CM400 ex) and if the stator actually got THAT hot it would burn up in no time.

Interestingly enough these Honda bikes don't suffer from stator failures and their SDG regulators never fail no matter how bad the connections get. So another myth is busted that corroded connectors break stator or regulators. Corroded connectors just make it hard to keep the battery up but don't "kill" regulators.

Using an overkill regulator isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's wired properly and mounted securely. The costs for the regulator is much higher than the SH-232 or SH-532 and there is the matter of a wiring harness to contend with. But to each his own. I've moved 300+ SDG regulators in the past few years and I think they are working fine these days.

[salty_monk]

I stuck one of these on my bike yesterday.. (straight plug in for me).

It fits, reads etc exactly the same as the FH010 & the FH009 that I have as far as charging voltage etc.

Now to find someone with a clamp meter / scope...!

[Chuck78]

Well I installed my used SH775 today and rewired a lot of the charging system and grounds, and it's charging like a dream now! 14.4 volts, no problem! about 13.6 just a little off idle speed. Relief... This unit is so much larger than the unit I pulled off of it, tiny unknown replacement with a 1990 manufacture date. Old unit with old corroded wiring and connectors (non-original) would charge at 12.2 at all rpm's above 2300... charging AWESOME now!

[salty_monk]

Fluke says you need the 337 for variable speed drives but it has to be worth a go if you've got one on hand!

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/Electrical-Testers/Clamp-Meters/Fluke-333.htm?PID=70330