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Speedometer Calibration ?? Painted Housing??
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Thanks for all the help Rusty. I really do appreciate it.
I oiled up the coil spring and cable port with 3in1.
The bike is down with fork rebuild right now...so the testing will have to continue at a later date.
From what I have learned from you so far.... should I just stop at this stage and put it back together then run it to see if it helped? Or should I go ahead and try "tensioning" the hair spring coil now also?
I guess I will be putting it back on without the bezel for the testing phase.82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Originally posted by Gregory View PostFrom what I have learned from you so far.... should I just stop at this stage and put it back together then run it to see if it helped? Or should I go ahead and try "tensioning" the hair spring coil now also?
I guess I will be putting it back on without the bezel for the testing phase.Last edited by rustybronco; 12-17-2012, 12:45 PM.
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostPersonally I would tension the spring, by bending the stop (rest) on the bracket that 'bell' rests against, and leave the lens off until you get the speedo error under control.
the bell?
Just so I dont screw it up. Are you saying to bend the thing that the coil spring is attached to? Away from the spring?...and about how much?
82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Do you see the bell shaped piece that the indicator needle is attached to? notice it has a tab and that tab rests against a stop. First try moving that stop so the indicator needle, if attached, would rest at a ***higher*** position, then reinstall the needle back at zero or slightly below zero. That should require more force to overcome the potential energy stored in the hair spring. The second thing to visit is the other end of the hair spring. You would bend that attachment point so as to increase the springs strength as well.
Your problem, as I see it, is not enough spring pressure to resist the force imparted by the spinning magnet directed against the force of the hair spring. It could be a pivot resistance issue as well, but lets try this method first.Last edited by rustybronco; 12-17-2012, 02:31 PM.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostFirst try moving that stop so the indicator needle, if attached, would rest at a ***higher*** position, then reinstall the needle back at zero or slightly below zero. That should require more force to overcome the potential energy stored in the hair spring.
Basically what you are trying to achieve is to to increase the springs strength.
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I put everything back together and unfortunately it is worse than before. When I have a little time I will take it off and try again. I saw a set on ebay for $75 but it's not worth that much to me....and i dont know how accurate that one is.
Does anyone know whether, if i get a 79 to 82 speedo, can I use the 140mph faceplate off of mine and have everything accurate?82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Originally posted by Gregory View PostDoes anyone know whether, if i get a 79 to 82 speedo, can I use the 140mph faceplate off of mine and have everything accurate?
Just changing the faceplate will not change how far the needle deflects, only the numbers under the needle.
What size tire are you running on the front? If you are using a 90/90-19, it will run fast. Switch to a 100/90-19, you will remove at least half of your speedo error.
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Originally posted by Agemax View Postthe speedos are not very accurate anyway, i doubt you will get them much closer than that, a 10% innacuracy is usual.
Maybe a bigger tire on the front would help.sigpic
Steve
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Let me re-state that. I wasnt saying I could fix my error with a different faceplate. I was saying that if I found a speedo on ebay that only goes to 80mph, could I put the 140mph face plate on it and have it work. Do they just have extra numbers on the plate, or are they spaced diffferently?
Tire is 100/90/1982 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Originally posted by Agemax View Postso if you are in a 30 zone you wont get zapped unless you are in excess of 33mph
B*st*rds.
Fortunately (?) I won't be getting any points as I have gone for the option of a 3.5 hour training event at £85 ( a no brainer - the alternative was 3 points and £60 fixed fine). The police get to keep the £85 (and share it with the AA - the training provider) in this case rather than it be swallowed up by the court. So that's why they're so keen......
Off to Basingstoke in a fortnight to be 're-educated' - I'll maybe put some feedback of the event on here.
Rant over. Back on topic.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Good Info
Originally posted by Gregory View PostDoes anyone know of a useful link or thread on how to recalibrate the speedo on my 78 gs1000 ?
When my speedo says I am going 36mph I am actually travelling at 30mph; when the speedo says I am doing 60, I am actually travelling at 50mph.
This is a pretty severe discrepancy that I wouldnt mind fixing.
Originally posted by Agemax View Postthe speedos are not very accurate anyway, i doubt you will get them much closer than that, a 10% innacuracy is usual.
as for the clock covers, they are out there but expensive (ask me how i know!)
if you want to spray them, just scuff them up with some rough grit wet and dry, then use metal primer
Originally posted by BassCliff View PostHi,
Have you tried a good clean and lube on the gauge? Remove the gauge from the housing, carefully pry off the front bezel with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Use a contact cleaner w/silicones spray to clean the internal mechanisms. Reassemble using a small punch to bend the front bezel back in place. I'd post some pictures but I'm on my phone. Nessism has some pictures floating around the forum and I've used them in other similar threads. They might be on my website.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostI've worked on several sets of those speedometers. Remove the bezel by wrapping several layers of masking tape around the plastic housing next to the bezel, you can slowly start prying it open in stages, say a third of the way open per each revolution. As someone said, there is a small screw in the center of the odometer knob, but more importantly there is a brass extension between speedometer and that knob, which is removable by holding the small stub sticking out of the speedometer and unscrewing it. In order to do that, you must first remove the speed indicator needle by CAREFULLY removing it using two levers resting on the two screws and prying the needle off it's shaft, then it's a simple matter to remove the two small screws and lifting off the face. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...52&postcount=1
End of part one.
Part two I will help you add a bit of tension to the hair spring and hopefully that will bring down the error rate in your indicated reading.
http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...&postcount=142
Originally posted by Gregory View PostThanks for all the help Rusty. I really do appreciate it.
I oiled up the coil spring and cable port with 3in1.
The bike is down with fork rebuild right now...so the testing will have to continue at a later date.
From what I have learned from you so far.... should I just stop at this stage and put it back together then run it to see if it helped? Or should I go ahead and try "tensioning" the hair spring coil now also?
I guess I will be putting it back on without the bezel for the testing phase.
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