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Originally posted by rustybronco
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I was just thinking that doing a "Quick test" after checking his connections would get to the heart of the problem faster than disassembly and doing AC stator tests . Those can be a little problem a times.
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Got home from work and did the quick test steps for the Battery to see if it is getting a charge. Below are the Results. It would appear to me that the batter is not getting charged because of the drop in numbers. I had the battery on a trickle charge all day and then did the test after removing it.
Quick Test Steps:
1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts
My 850s numbers: 13.11 volts
2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
My 850s numbers: 12.38 volts
3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
My 850s numbers: 12.66 volts
4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
My 850s numbers: 12.75 volts
5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts
My 850s numbers: 13.10 volts
6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
My 850s numbers: 12.41
So... I lost voltage. Right? I'm going to test the stator and r/r soon. Battery was totally dead and wouldn't even turn the bike over before I charged it.
scudderComment
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Have you performed any of the electrical repairs recommended?Originally posted by Scudder View Postsigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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Stator Test:
#1 Continuity test between the 3 stator wires: .6-.7 ohms
#2 Continuity to Ground: OL "Good to go"
#3 Output of stator at motorcycle is held at 4000 rpms:
Wires A-B: 56 v
Wires B-C: 60 v
Wires A-C: 95 v
From what I've read from BassCliff, my volts on the 4000 rpms, needs to be at 60V or higher. So... is my stator bad? It's new. I guess that means my R/R is bad too, or the stator wouldn't be wrecked, right?
Maybe I'm wrong. I need some insight on this one.
ScudderComment
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Were the new stator and R/R OEM or what? Brand names please.Originally posted by Scudder View PostsigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.Comment
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Both the stator and r/r were purchased from rmstator.
scudderComment
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Have you performed any of the electrical repairs recommended?
Are the electrical repairs on BassCliff's site? I cleaned the connectors, etc.
scudderComment
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You have cleaned the connectors but have you done the bypass to the light switch? Have you added grounds ? Are you using a stock style regulator or a newer up graded one? There are alot of things that can cause what you are experiencing but a little maintenance may save you some money.Originally posted by Scudder View Post
1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doingComment
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Verify that your voltmeter is working correctly by flipping it on A.C. and plugging the leads into a power source.Originally posted by Scudder View Post
If it checks out OK then, plug your old parts back in and ride it. If you don't have them anymore ping me...Comment
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I retested my stator after realizing I didn't have it on AC on my multmeter. The wires tested out at 66 amps in all three AB,BC, AC.
I will add the grounds, etc.
I appreciate at the advice.
ScudderComment
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Yes. Plugging the old parts back in has crossed my mind.Comment
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Easy now...Lets figure out what is wrong first. It might be (as I originally suspected) a bad rectifier/regulator.Originally posted by Scudder View PostComment
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OK You can see that your battery is good after charging. It had a surface charge at 13.11 which us a bit higher than normal. It then old drops to 12.38 which is quite good. This represents a standard load (your lights were on right?Originally posted by Scudder View Post
The voltage did not go very high only to about 13.1V and there was no fold back. This indicates that you are charging some, but how much we don't know without using the Stator pages.
Sorry your final voltage is much lower than where you started. You are not charging very much. Although your final voltage is lower, I think you are in fact charging some because you went from a key on of 12.4V to 13.1 volts at 5K RPM.
I would say your system appears functional and you just have bad connections or declining stator. Proceed to phase A of the revised Phase A of stator pages and see if you can detect large voltage drops that are keeping your charging voltage from going up.
Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:
ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES
The most important thing to do checks at 5000 RPM which is typical cruising speed. You might find that you will need to clean your fuse box to get the positive side voltage drops below 0.2V at 5000 RPM. In steps #1 above you should of gotten most of the connections between the R/R(+) to battery (+) in good shape except the fuse box.Last edited by posplayr; 05-02-2013, 07:34 PM.Comment
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Your AC voltage numbers are not symmetrical and are low which is probably accounting for a lot of your charging issues Even though you are getting OL on tests to ground, if you do the revised phase B tests where you check voltage to ground while at 5000 RPM you are going to see a low voltage. This means that the stator is already gone.Originally posted by Scudder View Post
Why did the stator already go bad after you just put in a new one? I don't know; Did you follow any of the other recommendations did you verify the Revised Phase A voltage drops were below 0.25V at 5000 RPM?
The R/R is probably good , that is what killed the stator. Double check the Revised Phase A and Phase B tests to see if your stator is really gone.
Phase A will show low voltage drops
Phase B will show AC voltage leakage to ground. This means Strator is burned.
And here are some updates with background to the Phase B tests that focus on the stator alone.
A revised test is at this link; The actual test is on Page 6 of 9. We added the leg to ground AC voltage test as this helps isolate insulation breakdowns to ground using the relatively high 60-80 VAC stator voltage when it is open loop.
Link to Revised PHASE B of Stator Pages with discussion of testing methods:
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977...4-pm-649k?da=yLast edited by posplayr; 05-02-2013, 07:43 PM.Comment
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