Where to buy a stator

[rustybronco]

Between the meter leads is 1.1
Between yellow & W/B is 2.4
Between yellow & W/G is 2.4
Between W/B & W/G is 1.7
No shorts to the case or core

1.3
1.3
.6

Resistance readings are between .5 and 2.0 Ohms. No resistance between any of the poles and the core.

Stator check passes.

I don't like the .6 as it is in an unbalanced condition in relation to the others. Personally I'd replace it.

Are you sure you had the meter set on A.C. volts and not D.C. when you took those voltage measurements ?

[Steve]

Btw what's the benefit of an upgraded r/r?

I was going to say "do a search", but decided to do it for you.

Go up to post #2, the first response in this thread. You will see that it is from posplayr, our resident expert in the charging system. There are some links in his signature about upgrading your system.

In a nutshell, the R/R that comes on our bikes is a "shunt-style" unit. Basically the magnets in the flywheel (rotor) and the windings in the stator will generate voltage that is based on engine speed. More speed, more voltage, it's a very simple process. There comes a time rather early in the speed where it is making too much voltage and it needs to be regulated. The shunt style regulator merely diverts the entire output of the stator directly to ground, which, of course, leaves the bike with too little voltage. It immediately puts everything back to the bike, which is too much. It keeps switching the entire output back and forth, the average output is just enough. The problem with this is with the engines that tend to run at higher RPM. Smaller bikes like yours, or the guys who gear down and spend more time in the twisties at higher engine speeds are the biggest culprits. The root of the problem is that the stator is ALWAYS putting out the maximum that it can, and some of it is simply wasted by dumping it to ground. All that current makes it run hot, the proof is in your picture.

The upgraded R/R (Compufire, Shindengen, Polaris) is a "series-type" unit, which interrupts the current flow instead of diverting it to ground. The bike still sees current (or voltage) that is intermittent, and is still the average output, but the difference is that the stator also sees intermittent current, not the maximum all the time. This allows it to run cooler. Because the stator is running cooler, it does not heat up the oil as much, so the whole bike runs a bit cooler, too.

Click on the links in posplayr's signature, you can read a lot more about it.

.

[shibby_cbs]

I was going to say "do a search", but decided to do it for you.

Go up to post #2, the first response in this thread. You will see that it is from posplayr, our resident expert in the charging system. There are some links in his signature about upgrading your system.

In a nutshell, the R/R that comes on our bikes is a "shunt-style" unit. Basically the magnets in the flywheel (rotor) and the windings in the stator will generate voltage that is based on engine speed. More speed, more voltage, it's a very simple process. There comes a time rather early in the speed where it is making too much voltage and it needs to be regulated. The shunt style regulator merely diverts the entire output of the stator directly to ground, which, of course, leaves the bike with too little voltage. It immediately puts everything back to the bike, which is too much. It keeps switching the entire output back and forth, the average output is just enough. The problem with this is with the engines that tend to run at higher RPM. Smaller bikes like yours, or the guys who gear down and spend more time in the twisties at higher engine speeds are the biggest culprits. The root of the problem is that the stator is ALWAYS putting out the maximum that it can, and some of it is simply wasted by dumping it to ground. All that current makes it run hot, the proof is in your picture.

The upgraded R/R (Compufire, Shindengen, Polaris) is a "series-type" unit, which interrupts the current flow instead of diverting it to ground. The bike still sees current (or voltage) that is intermittent, and is still the average output, but the difference is that the stator also sees intermittent current, not the maximum all the time. This allows it to run cooler. Because the stator is running cooler, it does not heat up the oil as much, so the whole bike runs a bit cooler, too.

Click on the links in posplayr's signature, you can read a lot more about it.

.

thanks for writing that out for me steve. im just gonna go ahead and replace the stator so if you wanna send me the info i need to get one from you that would be great. im gonna go ahead and read through the links and test the rest of the system in the mean time.

[shibby_cbs]

nevermind i just saw your pm...thanks!

[bwringer]

If you want to save a few bucks but still get a reliable stator, hit fleaBay for a stator from a GS500.

Several GS models use the same stator (see cross-reference here).

My GS850 is currently wearing a stator from a 2001 GS500, and I've got a lovely 2005 GS500 stator on the shelf ready to go that cost me all of $25 shipped. The connectors are different, but that's a piffling detail -- as long as the stator itself is the same, there are lots of easy interchanges.

Only a few basic types of stators were used on most GS models -- for example, the 1980+ 1000 and 1100cc models (both shaft and chain drive) all used the same stator.