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    R/R Sense wire

    Okay, I'll make it short and sweet.

    82 gs650g
    Brand new Stator and R/R.
    I start the bike, 13.8v at Idle
    But as I rev up to 4k Rpm's, the voltage goes Down, to 12.8 - 13v.
    Also, the R/R unit is very warm, after running for 2 or 3 minutes.

    Do you think my sense wire location is bad?(tail light)
    Or the R/R is bad?

    Opinions?
    Last edited by Guest; 05-17-2013, 08:31 PM.

    #2
    You can hook up the sense wire directly to the battery to eliminate voltage drop in the tail light circuit, but I suspect you'll find the issue of the voltage folding back caused by bad connections in the harness or fuse box.
    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

    Comment


      #3
      See Jim's revised Stator Papers.
      De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
        Yes that but linkly he also need some GS Charging Health

        Comment


          #5
          I figured he could fish the rest from all your links.

          Teach a man to fish...
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View Post
            Okay, I'll make it short and sweet.

            82 gs650g
            Brand new Stator and R/R.
            I start the bike, 13.8v at Idle
            But as I rev up to 4k Rpm's, the voltage goes Down, to 12.8 - 13v.
            Also, the R/R unit is very warm, after running for 2 or 3 minutes.


            Opinions?
            A good Shindengen should not get very warm- I'd suspect your unit is defective. Obviously, do the tests. Last year when my stator failed (short to ground) the only effect on my Shindengen was voltage readings jumping around as the R/R tried to compensate - no sign of heat.
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tom203 View Post
              A good Shindengen should not get very warm- I'd suspect your unit is defective. Obviously, do the tests. Last year when my stator failed (short to ground) the only effect on my Shindengen was voltage readings jumping around as the R/R tried to compensate - no sign of heat.
              If the resistance is high enough that the current flow (R/R to electrical from the + )makes the battery look fully charged (as sensed by the R/R ) and the R/R will stay in a short mode for a high percentage of the time causing more heat than what you would expect.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                If the resistance is high enough that the current flow (R/R to electrical from the + )makes the battery look fully charged (as sensed by the R/R ) and the R/R will stay in a short mode for a high percentage of the time causing more heat than what you would expect.
                Sure, but I suspect the Shindengen being designed for the bigger honda stators would not get very warm even with a suzuki sized stator producing flat out. v8 merc's voltage drop off at 4k seems very odd.
                1981 gs650L

                "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                  Sure, but I suspect the Shindengen being designed for the bigger honda stators would not get very warm even with a suzuki sized stator producing flat out. v8 merc's voltage drop off at 4k seems very odd.
                  same problem; high resistance. As the current increases there is a higher voltage drop between R/R and Battery causing the voltage at the battery to drop.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                    Sure, but I suspect the Shindengen being designed for the bigger honda stators ...
                    Who said they were bigger?

                    If they are bigger, it's not very much.

                    .
                    sigpic
                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                    Family Portrait
                    Siblings and Spouses
                    Mom's first ride
                    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      Who said they were bigger?

                      If they are bigger, it's not very much.

                      .
                      Here's a stator off 750 Sabre compared to my 650-stayed tuned for next pic
                      1981 gs650L

                      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I bought this for testing purposes. magnet wire is slightly bigger gauge, resistance phase to phase is still about .9 ohm. I'd suspect it could put out 50% more than suzuki. I have no idea what Sabres redline at.
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          OK, when you said "bigger", I was thinking "higher capacity". My mistake.

                          Yeah, the Honda does have a larger diameter, and it's wider, but that does not mean any higher capacity. In fact, if it uses larger wire, it will have fewer turns on the poles. That will give lower voltage, but higher current is possible. What that means out on the road is that you will have to spin the engine a bit faster before it finally charges the battery, but once it's charging, will be more likely to handle heated grips or a heated vest.

                          .
                          sigpic
                          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                          Family Portrait
                          Siblings and Spouses
                          Mom's first ride
                          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            In this case "bigger" does mean higher capacity. The greater physical size of the honda stator allows more turns of wire on the stator poles (assuming only slightly bigger magnet wire gauge); plus the thicker honda stator means a stronger magnetic field spins by those wires generating more voltage per wire turn. Seems likely that honda was after a little more output at low rpm. Of course, the problem is what to do with the surplus power as revs go up; the compufire and the sh-775 seem to solve that problem. Hopefully, someone (guess who ?)will actually test a sh-775 and report results and we can rejoice!
                            1981 gs650L

                            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Okay, Diode test only flows One way, like it should!(did all 12 steps)
                              But I'm only getting .440 on average....I know it should be .500-.800 right?
                              Is that a problem?

                              My Stator tested fine with the Ohms test.
                              (I didn't test the AC Voltage test yet.)

                              Comment

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