We all know the reputation for the stators and shunt-based regulators... in short, they can burnt out over time under normal conditions. So, I worked to save myself from a long walk home by doing a number of things.
1. I changed ALL of the incandescent to LED.
2. Ran a ground wire from the regulator directly to the battery. (Improves regulation consistency.)
3. Installed a shunt-based ammeter at the Regulator V+ output. (Since I ride 365 in the DC area i.e. heated clothing, this helps in monitoring the actually amperage.)
4. pulled all connections, cleaned and added electrolytic jell with reassembly
5. pulled all ground connections, cleaned with fine sandpaper and reconnected with small amount of E-jell (see above)
6. replaced Stock Headlight with HID.
With all this, she was able to run at about 3-4 amps with high beams on.
This allowed me to add 2 HID 55watts driving lights and full heated gear and still not go over 13 amps.
I also replaced the stock Stator with a 25A upgrade and added a 35A RR. You'll also notice that I added a 6-fuse, 4-relay upgrade.
The fuse and relay upgrade is taken from an 80's Jeep... with some physical modifications. The Jeep had modules within the big fuse bank (in the engine compartment.) I went to the local junk yard and found a module that had a 6-fuse/two-relay configuration and added (glued) another two relay module next to it. This did require some careful utility knife cutting, etc. After rewiring it from scratch, I ended up with the attaced wiring diagram. The relays are high amperage capable and take the load off of the stock switches. This is a good thing!
Will probably not have any electrical problems unless I add a fifth-wheel trailer.
My motto is "Do it right and you'll only do it once."
Here's the custom schematic for the bike.
Cheers and Safe riding.
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