power conservation - saving the stator

[bwanna]

From the picture you provided, yours isn't a series R/R.

Ok. Thanks for checking.

[posplayr]

There are only three on the market that I know of that work with the GS bikes, the Polaris SH-775, the Compu-Fire 55402 And I believe an Eletrix unit (not sure of the number, but 601 comes to mind). It is unlikely you got one by chance, especially shopping for price.

Electrix is Electrosport and they dont have a Series R/R. Cycle Electric is the 3rd Series R/R and there is also a German made one as well.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=191795

[OldVet66]

Thanks for the heads up. Not totally accurate on my part except the series R/R's are a bit few and far between.

[posplayr]

Thanks for the heads up. Not totally accurate on my part except the series R/R's are a bit few and far between.

Yes it is a short list but better than a null list .

[Griffyn]

Thanks for the reminder Ed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-Polaris...9cf76c&vxp=mtr

That one is already sold. Here's another, $46 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Polaris...605cf3&vxp=mtr

[rustybronco]

That one is already sold.

I know. I was the one who bought it.

[posplayr]

That one is already sold. Here's another, $46 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Polaris...605cf3&vxp=mtr

Somehow that doesn't look like an SH-775.

[koolaid_kid]

Somehow that doesn't look like an SH-775.

You are correct, it is not an SH-775.

[Griffyn]

Oh. I thought the 2010 Polaris Ranger has an SH-775. My mistake, please ignore that link.

Back to the study sheet...

[bwanna]

Here's an updated Wiring Diagram for my Bike. Thank you Posplayr for the observations. I was missing a fuse for the regulatory output... don't know how THAT happened!? But it's fixed now. I also updated this to show some disconnects that the original didn't have.

[posplayr]

Here's an updated Wiring Diagram for my Bike. Thank you Posplayr for the observations. I was missing a fuse for the regulatory output... don't know how THAT happened!? But it's fixed now. I also updated this to show some disconnects that the original didn't have.

The resolution on that schematic is very poor.

[bwanna]

The resolution on that schematic is very poor.

Yeah I know... Can't figure out how to keep the clarity and below the filesize limits.

[posplayr]

Yeah I know... Can't figure out how to keep the clarity and below the filesize limits.

Scan it to high resolution and put it on a web hosting site like photo bucket or as a pdf at Keep and Share. http://www.keepandshare.com/

[bwanna]

Scan it to high resolution and put it on a web hosting site like photo bucket or as a pdf at Keep and Share. http://www.keepandshare.com/

Try this:

http://www.4shared.com/download/5nCiJclLce/Suzuki_GS450T_Custom_wiring.jpg?lgfp=3000

[posplayr]

OK I looked over thsi for a while, but since you did not make it clear what is original v.s. what was changed it is a little like an easter egg hunt.

However what I could glean is that you have restructured the traditional O/G, O/R and O/W corresponding to SIGNAL, HEADLAMP and IGNITION. The original fuse box seems to have been eliminated, but as mentioned you did not retain these three circuits.

The HID and Driving lights have relays as close to those devices as practical so that avoids most of any voltage drops. The HID also has a cutout which also seems to cutout the driving lights as well. This is a good thing considering the current that the HIDs pull on power-up. In contrast the SSPB only controls the O/R HEADLAMP circuit from the fuse box with all the current still running through the left hand switch and an check panel if you have one.

The SSPB does also have a "START" cutout as well, but apparently the HID needs a longer time to warm up. Not sure this is really necessary, it is the start that needs the boost not necessarily the battery after the bike is started and running.

Since I cant find a fusebox anymore and there doesn't seem to be a fuse for the SIGNAL I'm assuming that all other power for SIGNAL and IGNITION is going through the ignition switch and is fuse with the same large Main fuse. The SIGNAL and IGNITION circuits were originally fused as 10 amps a piece. With LED's the SIGNAL circuit could certainly be reduce. The 10amps for ignition is also a bit large. As I mentioned since I don't these fuse then you have lumped them together with the main.

This may not be that bad , except I suspect your main fuse is larger than the 15 amp standard or even a 10 amp that you could probably get away with once converting to LED's. The problem I'm guessing is that you are running the air horn off of the same main fuse and if that is a Wolo it recommends a 20 amp fuse. So if you have a 20-30 amp fuse in the main you don't have even the course granularity of the original OEM fuse box. (15 amps total, 10 amps per circuit).

I would strongly recommend removing the air horn from the main fuse and putting it in parallel with it's own fuse direct to the battery. That way your main fuse could be dropped to 10-15 amps.

Another point about the main fuse and the R/R fuse you have. This is redundant and unnecessary at the same time. The R/R leg doesn't need to be fuse as the R/R can only generate so much current (18-19 amps) and that is if nothing else is on and you are still spinning the motor off at 5K RPM.
The R/R fuse is also in series with the Main so it is redundant. That is why Suzuki only designed the original fuse box to have a single main 15 amp on the battery before combining at the "T" with the R/R(+) and going to the ignition switch.

Finally, you have a lot of devices and connections between the R/R and the Battery ; I would suggest taking some measurements according to the Revised Phase A procedure of the stator pages and see if the voltage drops are within the recommended range.

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages: