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Dale, I know your a very busy man, but did you ever get one unpotted? Any progress on anyone making a reliable modern replacement???
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MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it. -
Nope, I got most of one unpotted but never tried a second. I have the parts to make up the one I designed but I've never got around to bread boarding it up... YET.
I have one that works both right and left but doesn't self cancel now that sedelen found and sent me a fully working one for Christmas.
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Was wondering..Heres an odd situation for you to ponder.
The self cancelling on the Cooley works for about the first 10 minutes of riding...then it wont cancel and i gotta flick the thumb to stop them. Whats your perception to this oddity???? And the 78 1000E never cancels so thats always the thumb to kill them.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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36 year old components and 30+ year old technology.Comment
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name your price..i want them to work as advertised..LOLMY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Every time you ride it works the first ten minutes, then quits the canceling? Park it a while and ride again later you get a new ten minutes?Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostComment
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Yeah..like it has a cracked solder connection in there..when it gets heated up it ajust enough to make it not cancel....least thats my theory.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Chuck,Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
A fully working one is very hard to come by, out of 20 I got from various places only two fully worked. One is on my bike and Dale got the other.
I think it is perhaps the weakest link on that otherwise great design of the GS1000, and the fact they didn't make any carb intake boots, and of course the lack of carb parts.
And at that time the '78 GS1000 was their flagship, hard to believe isn't it?sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
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'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZComment
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Actually Steve, in my mind it isn't hard to believe. It still is one good looking old standard UJM. A design that has withstood the test of time. Three brake rotors, self cancel signals, H4 headlight, full bearing crank, solid chassis and a comfortable riding position to boot.Comment
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Which part exactly is this? Do you have a picture? How many pins?Originally posted by sedelen View PostComment
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Jim, It it the Turn Signal Control Unit.
Here is a flock of them...
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Operation...
The left hand control (turn signal switch) consists of three momentary contact switches. One for left and one for the right turn and the third for manual cancel.
Pushing the turn indicator lever to either the left or right, latches the TSCU in it's respective turn mode which allows the current to flow out of the turn signal flasher (a simple bi-metallic flasher) through the the left or right TSCU's internal relays. The flashing (self cancel) will shut off the flashing when one of two conditions are met. The first is when the vehicles speed is above XX miles per hour, as sensed by the reed switch in the speedometer, AND XX seconds have passed. The second is when the operator manually cancels the unit by pushing the turn switch downward.
Pins...
I'll have to count them when I get home tonight.Last edited by rustybronco; 03-14-2014, 02:37 PM.Comment
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OK, The ones that I have seen are either 6 or 8 pin connectors. Have you looked for a mating right angle PCB connector that will mate to the harness?Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
The other option is to slip the pins out of the original connector and slip them into a new shell that has a PCBA mating receptacle.
The next option is to cut the wires and crimp on another set of contacts and a whole new connector setup.
Without that it will be a pain.
Fortunately my TCSU is working fine, I just need to get the TCSU mod designed. I'm doing several at once.
An Chuck is correct, failed solder joints are a primary failure mechanism for older devices. If it was not potted it would be easy to fix. It must be a mechanically weak design since as it is potted, the potting material should take the load of the PCB and it's traces. Apparently not well enough.Comment
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I have not.Originally posted by posplayr View Post
The method I would use is cutting the original harness off the old TSCU and soldering it to a replacement unit. You could also reuse the metal cover (can) and have a new plastic housing made to hold the replacement circuitry.The other option is to slip the pins out of the original connector and slip them into a new shell that has a PCBA mating receptacle.
The next option is to cut the wires and crimp on another set of contacts and a whole new connector setup.
Without that it will be a pain.
The second gen TSCU's are a much more durable design. Unfortunately it's operation is completely different than the 1st gen.Fortunately my TCSU is working fine, I just need to get the TCSU mod designed. I'm doing several at once.
We don't if that's the case with this unit as it has two exposed relays under the metal 'can'.An Chuck is correct, failed solder joints are a primary failure mechanism for older devices. If it was not potted it would be easy to fix. It must be a mechanically weak design since as it is potted, the potting material should take the load of the PCB and it's traces. Apparently not well enough.Comment
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No I haven't. It's just conjecture at this point.
I have 7 or 8 of these units in varying states of function. I guess I could build up a little test platform and see if I can replicate the cause and also it check to see if cooling a particular relay (component?) might cause it to start flashing again.
I'm deducing it 'could' be one of the problems with these as the relays are exposed to the atmosphere and they tend to corrode and the fact some unit's will stop operating on just one side.Comment
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