The best myth is one that cant be disproven-- so this thread is a gem.
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Synthetic vs conventional oil's effects on stator longevity
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Originally posted by RichDesmond View Post
The best myth is one that cant be disproven-- so this thread is a gem.1979 GS 1000e
1967 Triumph Bonneville
1986 Honda VFR 750
2014 Indian Vintage
2015 KLR 650
2019 Yamaha Tracer GT
2021 Yamaha Tenere 700
2023 Triumph Tiger 1200
And so on...
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Originally posted by open1mind View PostI have never read that either BUT--- many Synth manufacturers and fans of the type claim that Synth oil keeps the MOTOR running cooler due to lower friction. So it would stand to reason that a lower oil/motor temp MIGHT keep the stator itself cooler?
The best myth is one that cant be disproven-- so this thread is a gem.'20 Ducati Multistrada 1260S, '93 Ducati 750SS, '01 SV650S, '07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350
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Originally posted by RichDesmond View PostEven if you showed that it ran a degree or two cooler, (which I doubt it would) you still wouldn't know. The only way to know if it has a real, real-world effect is to run a few dozen motors, split between conventional and synthetic, on computer controlled dynos for a thousand hours or so and see if the wear rates and failure rates for the synthetic oil motors are lower.
I need to ring him up.
Originally posted by RichDesmond View Postso people just make up theories, or cherry pick lab data, and draw unsupported conclusions.Last edited by rustybronco; 03-27-2014, 01:32 PM.
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Dale,
I seriously doubt there is a difference in the heat conductivity between different oils. Even if there were though, I don't think the stator gets much oil thrown on it anyway. That's one of the reasons I don't believe stator heat contributes in a significant way to engine oil temp.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Ed, I don't believe the stator contributes very much to the engine oils heat either. It's not that high of a wattage device. What I was wondering is if engine oil against the stator and (or) aluminum cover kept the heat from being transferred, or helped it transfer heat or has little effect on transfer?
It's been shown engine oil has an affect on the epoxy used to hold the winding's in place on the stator. Now is that discoloration caused by a chemical reaction, or heat retention?
Just thinking out loud.
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Originally posted by tatu View PostI agree, I suspect what contributes stator failure more than anything is infrequent oil changes.
What about the decrease in the oil level from evaporation (??) when using a conventional oil?
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostEven if there were though, I don't think the stator gets much oil thrown on it anyway.
Not sure how we can find out other than making a cover with a clear window like on Agemax's clutch.
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Which adds another factor to all this. Does the increase in the flywheels speed contribute to or detract from oil retention in that area?
RichDesmond is correct. The only way to know for certain is through testing.
Sorry all, It's snowing outside, I'm sick and stuck at home waiting on a few parts to breadboard a project.
Beats arguing in off topic!
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Yeah, less anger and name calling for sure. I just looked at a 550 case, there is a window under the crankshaft, at the level of the raised "floor" of the case under the crankshaft. That's the only acess for oil that I can see to the stator cover, in or out. Is the oil normally pooled up un this area or does it usually run down into the lower area of the oil pan and around the transmission? If it's pooled up it seems like the rotor would sling it everywhere. But the stator sits inside, not outside the rotor. Maybe the flying oil cools the cover and the stator is cooled only by contact with the cover?
I guess I don't know where the oil goes when it's running, except it doesn't hang around by the sight glass.
I also have a 2v 750 engine here that was run low on oil until a piston broke, and some other stuff. I wonder what that stator looks like? I'll find out pretty soon.
Edit, that stator looks just fine, no burning or anything.Last edited by tkent02; 03-27-2014, 02:42 PM.
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostAs a result of the oil's thickening?
What about the decrease in the oil level from evaporation (??) when using a conventional oil?sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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surely Air/oil vapour does circulate. It has to, so close to the flywheel...I have to assume it's about the same temp.
But painting the sidecover black might help transfer heat directly from the stator...maybe more can be done.
Tom203's post here seems to think that the oil makes stator burn worse
however I can't help thinking that the OEM winding insulation itself must be pretty poor to burn before the oil does...and that it should be likely to burn in air, not oil..
and that rustybronco's argument is fine if synth will lower the temperature below that where the insulation does degrade in vapour or liquid form- that need be shown.
Anyways, it's always been a bad idea to be on an aircooled bike sitting in traffic in the summer. Being Happy like Tkent's bikes are and hopefully mine too, spinning along revving free in the breeze is my best hope to keep the stator alive. Though, the black paint is beginning to appeal to me
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In my humble opinion, it was just a crap designed system from the git go.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThen why do some of them still work fine after 35 years?
Operative word there is some not all. Mine was crap. There is always some that work just fine, not the majority by any means.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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