Synthetic vs conventional oil's effects on stator longevity

[Cassius086]

Then why do some of them still work fine after 35 years?

Here's one for you guys:

I was given a folder about an inch thick with every bit of work done to the bike (my 82 GS1100EZ) when I bought it ~12 years ago. It had 30,000 miles on it then. It has 80K now. To the best of my knowledge, when I removed the stator and R/R, they were the original OEM items.

Never had any sort of charging issue in the 50K miles/12 years of ownership. I am replacing the stock R/R with an SH775, and the OEM stator with a Rick's unit.

The plug for the R/R was burned and corroded, so it was a matter of time before something failed. After examining the harness closely, I decided to replace it, as well along with the OEM ignition coils.

The Ole Girl isn't going to know what to do with herself!

[tkent02]

Operative word there is some not all. Mine was crap. There is always some that work just fine, not the majority by any means.

I think they all fail once the connections get corroded. Until then, they don't.

[mrbill5491]

I think they all fail once the connections get corroded. Until then, they don't.

Not even, mine were clean as a whistle. Kept them that way since I bought it new. About the 4th year I had it, I noticed the connections were getting hot and took it back to the dealer. He took a look at them and we cleaned them and replaced the really bad ones, not 6 months latter the first stator died. The connections we replaced had burned again. Tested the R/R and tested fine, the stator was toast, couldn't even put out 15 ACkv on any one leg. Took the battery with it. Next time it happened (about 3 years later), took the R/R this time and the stator and battery again. Connections were upgraded to a HD type spade, didn't matter, 3-4 years AGAIN it burned out. Did everything over again and added a ground from the R/R to the battery and the frame. Poof another one went about the same time spam. I believe I still have 3 of the stators in my parts box.

[Old guy]

I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

The higher the output the more heat that is going to be generated anyway (resistance/induction)?

But added resistance anywhere is going to make it work harder and produce more heat.

So, my best guess would be oil isn't going to have on a stator in a system with other issues..... Bad connections and what not.

[rustybronco]

I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

I believe one of the aftermarket manufacturers made a HD stator which used heavier wire. What difference that ultimately makes I don't know.

[Gorminrider]

I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

The higher the output the more heat that is going to be generated anyway (resistance/induction)?

But added resistance anywhere is going to make it work harder and produce more heat.

So, my best guess would be oil isn't going to have on a stator in a system with other issues..... Bad connections and what not.

I'm actually running that experiment now-time will tell but apart from not mustering charging voltage at stoplights with the headlight on(and my bike idles pretty low too-800-950) it seems fine after one summer. A GSR member is Indonesia is also running a thicker winding...

[tkent02]

How many fewer turns?

[Old guy]

It'd be harder to get as many turns with thicker wire.

[Old guy]

I plan on putting all the electronics in a hobby type electronics enclosure and reusing a 12v PC fan to cool the box.

Heat is bad for electronics. So is resistance. Heat goes up, resistance goes up, more heat is made, more resistance.

[Gorminrider]

How many fewer turns?

I counted 35 turns taking old wire off. I got 27-30 back on using 18 gauge.

[tkent02]

Close enough, doesn't that make less voltage at a given RPM but could provide more amperage once it's wound out?

Or have I got that reversed?

[OldVet66]

You got it right, the reduced windings would supply slightly lower voltage and the larger wire size would handle slightly more current.

[Gorminrider]

I will never buy a stator, now, anyways and that pleases me.

I did a similar thing to a windmill on a 12v system . It originally was limited to about a 2 amp output by the resistance of it's windings, in a strong wind, but of course it put out a useful voltage in a light air once I made the right airscrew that could spin fast enough.

Rewinding it to a thicker wire (with the same prop) meant it didn't kick in until there was more wind, but charging output was beyond 6 amps.
so, as to Heat ie: more current Dumped through the ol' shunt regulator-a concern to the actual regulator itself too- that is part of the experiment...it was good with the 6wire Honda R/R off a silverwing- now it's going through an Ebay cheapo R/R.
(as an aside: I think Honda had a good idea mounting the R/R In The Breeze and not tucked behind a sidecover...)


So! I don't actually don't expect "cooler" at high revs at Stator or at this Shunt-type R/R either.... maybe even the opposite-More Heat!. ..but at low revs, in town,hot day, yada yada, I think maybe yes.

[Steve]

I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

Stator rewinders are few and far between. I have found one, however, and have enlisted his services to provide a few for me.

If you need a stator, let me know, I have a few in stock right now.

.

[bobgroger]

I am wondering if ANYONE with a series regulator has fried a stator? If not, this thread is kind of moot. If so we need to keep looking....