Electrical issue No headlight no Turn siginal

[rustybronco]

The other duplicate wires go to the regulator. Each duplicate is Y'd off from a single leg of the stator. If you look at the wiring diagram you will see what I'm referring to.

[posplayr]

"....obviously some thing cause it to overload and the burnt connectors and blew the Fuse "

You'd like it to blow fuse(s) before the wires and connectors get fried. I'd suspect a short to ground in fusebox area and/or in the R/R connections. Blowing the headlight fuse should not melt the fusebox cover.

Everything can be explain by high resistance without needing to assume a short.

[OldVet66]

I'm not sure of the wire colors, but I believe the green/white was one of the wires that took a detour through the light switch to disable one of the stator legs when the headlamp was turned off to keep the old system from overcharging. You want to abandon those two wires. You can run a continuity test between them and it will break continuity when you switch off the headlamp. I seem to remember the other wire was white/red. You want to connect the stator wires directly to the new R/R. Since you have a '79, one of each of the duplicate colored wires will be abandoned or twisted together. They are the same wire, split to go to the old separate rectifier and regulator. I hope you are planning to get a series R/R.

[Recoush]

After further evaluation,
My Bike has no headlight switch other then Hi/ Low

My headlight / turn signals worked intermittently after the connector fix
Decided to install the R&R ordered before my trip to York PA
The new R&R had 3 yellow, so one to each Yellow, White /blue, White/ Red

The Stator Green with white stripe does not connect to the R&R follows the same wire down

My R&R was located under the left cover with the fuses, the starter relay and a mystery module?
The other 2 same colored wires go to this mystery module?

Mounted the new R&R under the left cover fits vertically later will have to find a better method as I am not certain this will be sufficient to heat sink. The wiring is very confusing as I thought the white / red was the issue turns out part of the R&R

18 photos the original R&R is shown but not the new one.
the left cover (electrical) can be seen in the electrical group
The new R&R is just like the One in the Basscliff photo of the R&R

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/Recoush/library/RR%20Wiring%20Headlight%20Issues

[OldVet66]

If your bike is a '79, then someone changed the switch out for another model year headlight switch. Wonder what else they changed?

[Recoush]

except for the year difference and the wind screen yours and mine are the same color and wheels 1000e

Removed the damaged Vetter. Installed a Headlight and center bracket to mount the headlight. looks a little weird but works. all the controls are the same did not change any of them during repair.

Appears was the old R&R now the headlight stays on and the turn signals work went for a 15 min drive no more issues.

[Recoush]

Photo me and my daughter

who ever installed the Vetter removed all headlight hardware to install
headlight shot better then nothing :>)

cut an an aluminium bar across the center and mounted bracket to that and the light to the bracket so it is forward of the gauges

looks a little weird but gets the job done :>)

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y447/Recoush/Bike/DadandDaughterphoto_Bikes_zpse8245ef7.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y447/Recoush/Bike/P1040693_zpsc81a616a.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y447/Recoush/Bike/IMAG0783_zpsd43d3fc1.jpg

[OldVet66]

Now I understand your thread title and why you have such an odd looking wiring layout. I have a '78 and a '79 parts bike. I haven't been following your posts, the Vetter explains everything. Keep an eye on the burnt connections you repaired. Heat does strange things to copper. It's always better to cut out the overheated wire and re-terminate.

[Recoush]

Mystery Box per wiring diagram is the Regulator (Clymers manual 78-79)
the Green with white stripe from the stator shows it going to a headlight ON/Off

The white with red stripe from the rectifier goes to the Headlight On/ off

the extra yellow and the Extra White / blue stripe
goes to the Regulator (separate from the rectifier)

my problem the White/Red seems to be needed
suspect some place someone rewired this to the headlight. Was getting intermittent headlight when monkey with the white / red which lead me to replace the R&R which is only a rectifier Not a rectifier / regulator

Looks like the white /green gives the headlight Hi beam power as their appears to be a common between the missing headlight switch and the Hi/low beam (will disconnect to see what happens)

the Stator test all Passed as documented

Will have to route this out some day, unless some one else has seen some thing this weird. wondering if this may have been done when they installed the vetter as that makes some kind of sense

Raining again. so will have to wait to re-investigate the wiring. On the road again comes to mind

[Redman]

Update,
Here is what i found :>)

Headlight fuse 10A Blown and melted the Fuse cover (hole in side of cover now)
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Still no head light or Turn signals, replaced headlight fuse at this point
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I will let other folks address the situation with the stator wires (appearntly your 79 stator-R/R wiring is different than I am familiar with).

But, I can say again that your charging system (stator-R/R) situation is separate from your headlight-fuse situation. And needs to be addressed separately.

I too have had fuse block meltdowns (hey, and it was in heavy rain too, and about 300 miles from home).

Oh, wait ... a 79. SO the glass fuses, right.
Can you tell by the melt pattern if the heat was from where the fuse clips into the clip? ... if so, maybe that can be cleaned up and/or the fuse clips be bent in so holds the fuse tighter.
Or is the melt area indicate problem with connections inside the fuse block?... if so, I dont know how much that fuse block can be disassembled.
Either way, maybe explore replacing the fuse block with either a salvage-used-ebay one, or maybe rewire with a generic fuse block available at auto parts stores.

Possibly headlight fuse did not "blow" due to an overload, but bad connection there at fuse or inside fuse block caused it to overheat from the heat, and so more melted from the heat and not so much blew from too much current. The regular amount of current thru a bad connection (resistance) can cause a lot of heat.

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[OldVet66]

Recoush, you need to get a modern R/R and trash that old split system, they are nothing but trouble. Ask me how I know. Trace the old white/red and white/green that looped a stator leg through the headlight switch. The PO changed your headlight switch, so you need to know what he used those wires for and figure out his mess so you can straighten it out and have a reliable bike. Same goes for the turn signals unless you have already sorted them out. I take it you have a wiring diagram?

[Recoush]

well now that i know i have a split system and know the Stator is Good

Need to install the Headlight Relay circuit any way since i cant turn off the headlight will do that while sorting out the wiring.

the fuse burned through the right side of the plastic box think that is the main power side cleaned the contacts of the melted headlight glass fuse 10A ( that was the easy part) cut and trim all the Bullit connectors was not bad either.

figuring out the wiring high resistance issue guessing some thing to do with the old rectifier was the real issue.

Guess the air forks removal will have to wait a bit longer, have to order those one of these days.

Got to have reliable electrical lucky the bike ran with out headlight and turn signals all the way home :>)