Regulator 3 wires always show heat issue .. where join

[ukjules]

GS550E 1980
I am just putting a new engine into bike
and coming to the electrics to fit engine
I note for some time I have suffered
hardening , dark discolouration almost
a look of over heating on the 3 wires from
the stater. (near the regulator where wires join)
The blackened rubbers of connectors were clear rubber ones

I attach photo of wires (and yes I need
to redo 1 terminal) but why would this
be happening?
(Zero degradation in performance , lights
or starting with this issue )

20201119_150757_resize_17.jpg

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Typical. Do not pass GO, do not collect $200. It's the same-ole, same ole. Combinations of crappy RR from factory, corroded connections. Much hand wringing and writing has been done here on the forum about the stock RR shunting power/heat back through the stator wires, replacing the OEM RR with a Shindengen SH775, cleaning up the connectors, consolidating the grounds to a single point, and eliminating the headlamp loop. Though in GB, you may actually be able to turn your headlamp off, idk.

[Brendan W]

Those bullet connectors have a bad reputation for corrosion resistance heating.
If you did nothing else get good spade types crimped on there.

[Big T]

Cut back all 3 wires and replace the connectors
Clean every connection on the bike, especially grounds
Once running, test stator output and resistance
Check voltage output from R/R
Replace as needed

Your system had high resistance, which is why it overheated

[ukjules]

ok . will renew connectors tomorrow.
Hopefully got a stock of spade ones but
new other type at worst.


Will check earth's and state of other connectors
but I have left bike for a long while as it just keeps
going. No more neglect as these bikes are precious.

[Nessism]

Soldering the wires together may be better. It only takes a few moments to do and removes all contact resistance. Don't forget some heat shrink over the joint...

[chris]

Soldering the wires together may be better. It only takes a few moments to do and removes all contact resistance. Don't forget some heat shrink over the joint...

That's what I do, I also stagger the joints so the connections are not beside each other. Make sure your alternator is good, use a good rectifier running all three inputs to your stator and your outputs straight to your battery with a 30 amp fuse. The wires going to your battery should be 10 gauge, tin coated marine wire is nice . I also tin the crimps on the ring connectors then heat shrink .Your charging system will be golden.

[ukjules]

I cant solder - have tried so many times and simply cannot do it. I will when this engine project is done have another go.
Heat shrink i can do and staggering joints def possible.
The rest I am lost .. but will look into when i have time for the manuals out again.

My rectifier / regulator or whatever it is has the three wires to the stator.
A ground to neg terminal on battery
A wire into the loom......
AND
another which years ago i tapped into the rear brake switch power - i am sure
it is a 12v sense wire.

20201120_112859_resize_55.jpg

The rectirfier / regulator pre this had no "sense wire" i dont think ?
This may have been the old standard ?

Be great if someone could explain the above ?
And remember all works fine !!! charging is fine ! only the apparent overheating
of outer protection rubbers.

[steveb922]

The sense wire is typical of older Honda regulators, which was a common fix for Suzuki charging systems back in the day. It worked pretty well.

[ukjules]

I am trying to think why I have that on the bike ?
Do you think it is normal for a 1980 gs550 ?

I think I have one without the sense wire
in my stock. perhaps I used this one as a temp fix
or supplier sent wrong one.

But it works and has done for ages.
again neglect of notes on my GS.
I am shocked how badly I neglected my favourite bike
while I sorted my others.

[chris]

Hi Ukjules , don't worry if you can't solder. You can use good crimp connectors. A lot of people say they are better than solder because they are less brittle. The plastic covered ones that you commonly get in hardware and auto parts stores are not reliable. When I use them I cut the plastic off and tin (solder) them afterwards. You want the kind that fold onto the wire not squeeze it. I just can't remember the proper name for them. The crimping tool is expensive at around $, 100.00. I will post the proper name , when I get home and look at my tools.

[ukjules]

I have gone for the quicker method and
cleaned and redone a few connectors only.
The actual connections were pretty clean.
Also removed the blackened and hardened
out plastic of offending connections.
I'll add heat shrink to them all and clean
connections of sense wire etc.

I am again using the original Japanese style
connectors (not spade).

I need to get bike going but the regulator
issue is on the list. Spade connectors another time
as the reg wires are reducing in length.....
and my spade connectors are poor quality.

[ukjules]

check my stock and have this china ebay one
for my bike.
it has all the wires bar that sensor wire.

do these bikes need sensor wires ?
20201121_160217_resize_78.jpg

[chris]

Hi, the connectors I was referring to are called open barrel and deutsch . They are similar if not the same as the oem ones.