Taking apart the ignition switch

[Rich82GS750TZ]

It’s in your owners manual.

[timebombprod]

Update, everything works!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Everything?, or just the ignition switch? Either way, it’s a win. Did you pick up any voltage by cleaning it?

[bwringer]

Congratulations!


I've taken ignition switches apart for cleaning, and they're always horribly filthy inside. Sometimes there's significant wear to deal with as well if the bike has a lot of miles or has been ridden a lot with a heavy key chain. Sometimes you can tweak the contacts a bit so that they make better contact.

It's a puzzle, but do-able with care, patience, good lighting, and a pan or tray for disassembly.

If replacement is required, you can often avoid the need to carry two keys by removing the gas cap and helmet lock cylinders and filing or rearranging the wafers so they'll work with the new key. The ignition switch uses (IIRC) five wafers, while the other locks only use three.

[timebombprod]

Everything?, or just the ignition switch? Either way, it’s a win. Did you pick up any voltage by cleaning it?

Unfortunately no voltage was gained... I know I'm losing atleast a volt in the killswitch, but I think it's where the killswitch meets the coilpack wires in the harness being that's the only thing I didnt touch.

[timebombprod]

Congratulations!


I've taken ignition switches apart for cleaning, and they're always horribly filthy inside. Sometimes there's significant wear to deal with as well if the bike has a lot of miles or has been ridden a lot with a heavy key chain. Sometimes you can tweak the contacts a bit so that they make better contact.

It's a puzzle, but do-able with care, patience, good lighting, and a pan or tray for disassembly.

If replacement is required, you can often avoid the need to carry two keys by removing the gas cap and helmet lock cylinders and filing or rearranging the wafers so they'll work with the new key. The ignition switch uses (IIRC) five wafers, while the other locks only use three.

Thanks! Really.hope it doesnt need to be swapped as it does seem to do as it should and the wires did not have a sign of corrosion and the brass was very clean. I'll find that loss somewhere!

[tobaccorancher]

I am in the process of cleaning my ignition switch on my 1979 GS750. So far, I have:

Remove headlight

Removed the two bolts holding the headlight can, 12 mm socket.

Pull the bucket away to get room. Disconnect the connector going to the switch. This is the connector with red, orange, brown, and grey wires.

Remove the bolts holding the ignition switch, they are 4mm hex, directly under the ignition switch, and remove the switch and take to the bench.

Pull off the black plastic cover and unscrew the small phillips screw. Then, the black contact assembly can be removed from the mechanical part of the switch.

There is a white cap that holds the contacts. There are two places where you can pry to remove the cap. I used small shims to push up at those two spots while I used my fingernails to pry out the tabs at the top. The shims help you from losing ground when you release the white tabs and having it go back together on you.

Once the white cap is off, the switch assembly is exposed. This is where it gets exciting. The bottom part of this assembly has two springs and two ball bearings. The springs push the ball bearings against a channel on the inside of the white cap thing. So, take care or use the bag technique that others have talked about when taking apart the lower part of the switch in the white cap thing.

I cleaned both sides of the contacts with contact cleaner, and got them pretty good. Are they good enough? I don't think it is wise to use sand paper on these contacts. Also, when I took it apart it seemed like there was a lubricant in the lower part of the white cap thing for the ball bearings. I am thinking of putting some lithium grease down there (small amount) to lubricate the ball bearings.

Final question: I have heard of people using dielectric grease on contacts. But, dielectric grease is non-conductive. So, I am planning on putting nothing on them. The contact cleaner leaves a small lubricating film, I think. Can I get your thoughts on this?

I have some photos for those that have not seen this, or for those that want to re-live the horror, but my uploads are failing? If I can figure out what is wrong I'll upload them....

Andy

[chuck hahn]

silicone grease

[Grimly]

https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

[tobaccorancher]

OK, thanks, looks like a thin smear of dielectric grease is the answer. I guess I'll use a smear down below for the ball bearings as well.