Gas Tank Bolt Threads Stripped

[Redneck]

Okay i have read many of the articles on how to remove a stripped bolt, but this one is a little different. The bolt that goes in the back of the Gas Tank below the front of the seat to hold the Gas Tank on is pretty much free spinning. I put a ratchet on it and it just turns and turns and will not back out. I put a large flat head screwdriver beind the head of the bolt and leveraged out while I was trying to loosen it up, that did not work. Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. It is turning to much to put a drill on it and drill it out. I am not sure if I can get grinding wheel up to it and I know a saw of somekind is pretty much out of the question. Space is to tight. So i am pretty much stumped on how to get it out. Any suggestions would be wonderful.

[cowboyup3371]

I had the same problem with my airbox on friday. If by using a pair of pliers and pulling on the bolt while turning doesn't help, you'll probably need to cut the head off and pull out from the other direction. Then get a tap and reset the threads.

At least that is what I did and will have to do on the airbox.

[7981GS]

Find yourself a heel bar (Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Heel-Bar-4Pcs-12-16/dp/B000FVEDHA) and notch a V or U into the tip to fit around the threads and fit against the head of the bolt.
Apply outward pressure while turning the bolt out and it should come right out.

Daniel

[DanTheMan]

The nut is welded to the back side of the frame mount. It's possible the weld broke and the nut is spinning. You might have to grab it with a pair of locking pliers to keep it from spinning and then back the bolt out.

[Redneck]

I put my fingers behind and I can feel the bolt turning but the nut is not turning, so I am pretty sure the nut is still welded in place. I tried using the pressure from a flat head screw driver but I like the heel bar idea, I have a small prybar now that I think about it that might work. Unfortunately remember this is on a 550L with the single center bolt up under the gas tank so cutting it will be an issue, unless I can get my dremmel under there. Thanks for all the feedback i will post what happens.

[Suzuki_Don]

Grip the head of the bolt with a pair of vice grips and turn anti clockwise while pulling out on the bolt. Any other pliers will slip off while pulling, but the vice grips will clamp on and not let go.

[Black Knight]

I had a similar problem last week on my battery box . The screw head was good but when i tried taking it out the head was messed up . So i took a drill bit just a bit larger than the screw head and drilled it then took a big flat head screw driver and a hammer and knocked the head off and was lucky to get the stud out . I had to do the same on the start sol bolt and i replaced both with hex head bolt's .

So you might try drilling the bolt head then pry the bolt head off .

[Redneck]

Well the winner was Suzuki Don. Vice Grips and a lot of tugging. I actually tried vice grips twice first time the rubber washer behind the metal one was not letting me get in on it hard enough i am guessing. I managed to cut it out with a flathead screwdriver and after trying to apply pressure once more I was at my wits end and finally grabbed my bigger set of vice grips took a good solid bite on bolt head. With my six year old yanking up and down on the gas tank (okay i helped a little) it finally came out.

It looks like the threads actually stripped in such a way to turn into a solid ring inside the nut like a bushing inside the nut and would not come out when trying to wrench it out. Anyway it is out thank you for your advice. Now i have to cut off the old nut and have someone tack weld a new one in.

Paul

[DanTheMan]

Just get a tap and re-thread it. You could use either SAE or metric, your choice.

[banditom]

try a quarter inch by fine thread if original is 6mm

Hi,

It really would be better to use a tap to redo the threads, but you will prolly find that original bolt is a 6mm, you can prolly replace it easily with a quarter inch fine thread bolt of slightly shorter length and just thread it in to recut those threads to a slightly larger size.

[Redneck]

Going with Re-Tapping

I think i am going to retap it. I will expand it to 8mm and just get a new bolt. I want to stay metric because it saves on the confusion of which tools i need. Thanks again for all the input.

Paul

[Allie]

Wow I was just wondering how you and the bike were doing, it's been a while since I've seen you post. Been riding in the snow??

[Steve]

Just get a tap and re-thread it. You could use either SAE or metric, your choice.

Hi,

It really would be better to use a tap to redo the threads, but you will prolly find that original bolt is a 6mm, you can prolly replace it easily with a quarter inch fine thread bolt of slightly shorter length and just thread it in to recut those threads to a slightly larger size.

Remind me to keep my bike away from you guys.

.

[Suzuki_Don]

Remind me to keep my bike away from you guys.

.

I'm with you on this one Steve.

[Suzuki_Don]

Hi,

It really would be better to use a tap to redo the threads, but you will prolly find that original bolt is a 6mm, you can prolly replace it easily with a quarter inch fine thread bolt of slightly shorter length and just thread it in to recut those threads to a slightly larger size.

I think you will find the bolt is 8mm not 6mm. You will need to RECOIL with an 8mm x 1.25mm pitch.