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Im assuming the tank lining is a "General" item

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    Im assuming the tank lining is a "General" item

    Ok, I have a sweet tank for the 650 coming that will require no mods to fit. It was for a good price IMO ($50) damn shipping for Canada is a killer though. Ill have to pull a bunch of dents from the area where it looks to have been the victim of some tank slap. After Im done, Ill need to reline the tank. Whos gots the best liner out these days. Used to be POR but thats been a few too many years ago.

    #2
    It's still POR 15 by consensus

    It's all in the prep work, don't skimp on that
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      I just did the POR job and it states very clearly it's good for all modern fuels including ethanol blends.

      As Big T said, prep work is everything. Don't scrimp on the prep work!
      1982 GS450E - The Wee Beastie
      1984 GSX750S Katana 7/11 - Kit Kat - BOTM May 2020

      sigpic

      450 Refresh thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-GS450-Refresh

      Katana 7/11 thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...84-Katana-7-11

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        #4
        I am torn between Caswell's and POR-15.

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          #5
          I'd try POR-15 if there are no leaks. If leaks already exist, use Caswell.

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            #6
            Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
            I'd try POR-15 if there are no leaks. If leaks already exist, use Caswell.
            I agree with mike. Caswell's epoxy is quite thick and will fill voids better.

            Regardless of what ever method someone chooses I strongly advise that the tank is derusted to the best of your ability before lining. Rust is like cancer and will spread unless eliminated, or at least greatly diminished and sealed over. A quickie derust job is to be avoided if you want the job to last.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

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              #7
              Steel is all the liner that I need!
              As long as you keep fuel in it, and don't leave it there too long, it will be fine.

              But hey, that's just me.
              Problem is, there is so much ethanol in the fuel today, it rusts the tanks and clogs the carbs 10x faster.
              (which is why I remedy it with some marine stabil)
              Last edited by Guest; 07-07-2011, 04:51 PM.

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                #8
                i read on here all the time about people lining their tanks... is that a US thing or is your fuel/tanks make from something different to the UK? just curious an' all as in the UK it's avoided as much as possible... just more crud to block jets and get into the motor. if the tanks clean inside, like has been said, keep fuel in it and it'll be fine.... it it's rusted then get it cleaned out.... just my 2p worth but personally, i hate lining a tank. i see no reason for it to be honest

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by sparki View Post
                  i read on here all the time about people lining their tanks... is that a US thing or is your fuel/tanks make from something different to the UK? just curious an' all as in the UK it's avoided as much as possible... just more crud to block jets and get into the motor. if the tanks clean inside, like has been said, keep fuel in it and it'll be fine.... it it's rusted then get it cleaned out.... just my 2p worth but personally, i hate lining a tank. i see no reason for it to be honest
                  So please share how you "...get it cleaned out". I'd love to learn the UK's magic method.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #10
                    I think the problem with rusting is that it opens up pits that increase surface area and therby accelearte the rusting process.

                    High sulphur content fuel would lead to rusting problems.
                    Gas varies form place to place. Maybe the Euros have stringent rules on the content of corrosive elements in fuel.

                    Then there is the group that leave a tank par filled with moisture laden stale fuel. A recipe for disaster. I have had tanks that have lived all their lives rust free because of care taken to keep them dry.

                    I resorted to drying and bringin them in the house in winters to control the humidity. That may be seen as extreme though.

                    Many of the folks on here who have de-rusted a tank have started with hideously rusted things that were clearly in need of it. Filled with flaking rust and such.

                    I think once cleaned and then properly maintained a tank would be fine.

                    Of you folks that have sever tank rust how many live near a great salt sea?

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                      #11
                      Once it gets bad you're fighting a losing battle - especially if it's perforated already.

                      Kreem has a nasty reputation for cracking/peeling with oxygenated fuels, so I wouldn't let the stuff near my bike. POR-15 I have no personal idea, though it has a much better reputation. But I can't imagine Caswell ever causing such issues.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by sparki View Post
                        i read on here all the time about people lining their tanks... is that a US thing or is your fuel/tanks make from something different to the UK? just curious an' all as in the UK it's avoided as much as possible... just more crud to block jets and get into the motor. if the tanks clean inside, like has been said, keep fuel in it and it'll be fine.... it it's rusted then get it cleaned out.... just my 2p worth but personally, i hate lining a tank. i see no reason for it to be honest
                        Keeping the tank full cuts down on rust build-up by reducing the amount of atmosphere in the tank. During the course of daily expansion and contraction, condensation will eventually build up on the bottom of the tank. Also, the bigger the differential in daily hot and cold temps and high humidity levels can greatly increase the amount of this moisture build up.
                        Ethanol gas doesn't help either, starts breaking down and going into it's phase separation after two weeks. An additive that allows fuel to mix with the water helps (most contain alcohol but some have mineral spirits which I try to stay away from). Keeping fresh gas in the tank helps (riding the bike enough to always have fresh fuel in it). I also run it in reserve for short periods hoping to get that water run out of the bottom of the tank.
                        Anyway, that's my .02 cents.
                        sigpic
                        Steve
                        "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
                        _________________
                        '79 GS1000EN
                        '82 GS1100EZ

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                          #13
                          Because I'm too lazy to flip the lever, I always run it on reserve.
                          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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                            #14
                            I would use a tank cleaning acid to remove all of the Rust, or use Electrolysis.

                            Then spray WD-40,PB Blaster or Olive Oil all over the walls to stop the flash rust, as you re-assemble the petcock,etc.

                            Then dump some fresh gas in the tank and swish it around real quick.
                            Then drain it out of the petcock, then fill the tank up again with fresh gas and Fuel Stabizer.


                            Having a little flash rust is perfectly fine, most of it should go away after a few fill-ups and riding.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              It's a good thing your GSes have a fuel gauge


                              Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                              Because I'm too lazy to flip the lever, I always run it on reserve.

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