Non GS help needed, Honda CH125 motor

[rustybronco]

Dale, someone told me to anneal the solid copper gasket by heating it up well and plunging into cold water before fitting it, to make it super soft before fitting it.

Andre, As I recall to anneal copper which had been work hardened, you heated it up then let air cool down.

[Matchless]

Wemoto have the gaskets listed:

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CH...G_Spacy/83-87/

Thanks I did see that one, but it had a mention next to it that they do not carry stock, but place an special order.
Unfortunately I did not follow up on that one because of that note.

Thanks, will contact them if my locally made solid copper gasket does not work out.

[Matchless]

Andre, As I recall to anneal copper which had been work hardened, you heated it up then let air cool down.

Dale,
You are right, it seems that either quenching or letting cool down can be used on copper to get it dead soft.
We used to quench our brass casings for reloading (resizing).
It seems that the copper will need careful cleaning after annealing as well.

Do you have any comments on the use of the Permatex copper spray as a dressing for the solid copper gasket?

[rustybronco]

Years ago I used Permatex copper head gasket spray on embossed metal head gaskets before installation. I don't recall any issues with it's use.

what have you decided to do with the protruding cylinder liner?

If I recall correctly, nessism had a problem with liner movement when curing paint (??) in a BBQ grille. I don't remember for sure what method He used to get them back in their proper position.

[Matchless]

Years ago I used Permatex copper head gasket spray on embossed metal head gaskets before installation. I don't recall any issues with it's use.

what have you decided to do with the protruding cylinder liner?

If I recall correctly, nessism had a problem with liner movement when curing paint (??) in a BBQ grille. I don't remember for sure what method He used to get them back in their proper position.

I think Ed heated them up until the liners could be moved, but I am not as confident in myself going that way and I also do not have a backup spare in case I mess something up.
Instead of boring the cylinders a friend of mine had all 4 sleeves on his GS replaced by a machine shop and bored to standard size, instead of oversize boring, with oversize pistons and rings.

I had another look at the protrusion and its really only about as thick as a sheet of A4 paper in my printer.
As I could see the impression of the cylinder ring end on the old aluminum gasket I sent in as a template, I was not sure if that may have been the cause of the gasket starting to leak, by lessening the pressure on the next ring which is alluminum.
I am toying with the idea of just lapping it at home on sandpaper and a bit of glass and at the same time get the full gasket surface on the cylinder top level.
If its going to take many hours then I will rather have the whole cylinder top skimmed level by a machinist.

If funds were not a problem I would have everything done, but that would also be no fun.

Here is a picture:

[rustybronco]

lap the cylinder on a piece of glass covered with 1K paper being held flat by a mate. keep an eye out for the sanding marks on the aluminum to ensure a level surface. spray the gasket with gasket sealant, slap it back together and call it a day.

Andre, for as long as I've known you, you've always been DIY. I can't see you doing it any other way.

(it's time for me to start spraying SSU... )

[Matchless]

lap the cylinder on a piece of glass covered with 1K paper being held flat by a mate. keep an eye out for the sanding marks on the aluminum to ensure a level surface. spray the gasket with gasket sealant, slap it back together and call it a day.

Andre, for as long as I've known you, you've always been DIY. I can't see you doing it any other way.

(it's time for me to start spraying SSU... )

Nic, a knowledgeable friend dropped in this morning for coffee and he had a look at the head and cylinder. He suggested the following;

1. Lap head and cylinder at home on a sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper wet with paraffin (kerosene) on a piece of glass using a figure of 8 movement.
2. Lap the slight protrusion level with the gasket surface.
3. Anneal the new gasket (He has used these many times before)
4. Fit the gasket dry, then it comes off if you need to take the head off in the future again. He said I can use a gasket sealer, but can do it without as well
5. I can use a very light bit of high temp. silicon around the edges of the water jacket

I feel a bit more comfortable with all the feedback and advice from all now and good to go. Thanks

[rustybronco]

Other than #4, I totally agree with Nic.

[Matchless]

Other than #4, I totally agree with Nic.

Yes, Nic, did say that he is old school and does everything one way only as he learned to do many years ago. I mentioned spraying it with copper gasket sealer and he said he recalls using it once long ago. He does not do motors, just machine work.
Thanks to you and someone else for the advice to keep to the dressing of the head gasket.