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Checking Valve Clearances: Near Disaster?
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SqDancerLynn1
Vise grips are used on the exhaust cam when re installing the cam chain to hold it in position to set the timing
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Originally posted by Allie View PostAre you serial? How do they become corroded? lots of sitting in a damp climate?1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Originally posted by Big T View PostSteel bolts in the aluminum head- dis similar metals often react and produce a corrosion"Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."
-Denis D'shaker
79 GS750N
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ekabil
so how exactly should the cams be positioned to relieve the pressure?
Edit: the manual doesn't say anything about it
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JEEPRUSTY
Ekabil I am only thinking of how my bike is set up.
I removed my caps with a good socket and a breaker bar. A short sharp crack beats a slow load up on a bolt.
I removed them in a pattern in order to relieve the load on the bolts in a relatively equal pattern.
I noted that the cam lobes would prevent me from loosening the caps where ever the cam lobes were contacting the followers on anywhere bu the heel
I simply rotated the cams by hand in order to place the lobe and its heel where ever the resistance was greatest in turning the bolts.
My unit has threaded adjusters though.
You mentioned that there was still no clearance so rotating may score your cam lobes. Someone else can chime in and say more on this. Do not rotates them if there is a chance of damage.
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7981GS
Originally posted by ekabil View Postso how exactly should the cams be positioned to relieve the pressure?
Edit: the manual doesn't say anything about it
You will see which ones are under pressure at the given cam location.
Unbolt accordingly.
I set the cams at TDC before doing any removal.
Don't forget to remove the cam chain tensioner FIRST before unbolting the caps.
Eric
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ekabil
1. no vice grips
2. what is a "follower" - do you mean that I should remove the bolts when the cams are in the same position as when checking clearences? ie minimize contact with the bucket?
at this time there is one shim in the engine. Thats why it will be tough to rotate it without causing damage. But I think it might be possible to put shims in where I can right now, and then rotate so that those valves are the ones compressed, then add more shims, etc.
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ummmmm......NO. Is there anyone near this fella to give him a hand?Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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terrylee
Don't rotate your engine again! There should be a pattern for bolt removal in the manual, there is a certain order you should break them loose to prevent tension on the cams. The visegrip idea is to take tension off the cams. It is real possible you may have bent valves. take your time, read the manual, or try to find someone to help you. terrylee
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JEEPRUSTY
This thread is turning into an exasperation festival
Ekabil cease despair and if possible post some pics with the engine top end in it current state.
The world is not ending and the chicken little types need to help or stfu.
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ekabil
There's no mention of a pattern in the manual. It's a clymer. I'll get some pics tomorrow when I try to bust those bolts loose again.
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DannyMotor
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