Stripped Stud - Help Required

[Anonymous]

I have just discovered that one of the studs on the bottom of my forks (the ones that hold the axle caps on) has mostly stripped off. It went soft while I was tightening things up last night (yes, I was using a torque wrench :? ) and I pulled it off today to find both nut and stud threads mangled. I ran a tap through the nut and it cleaned up pretty good, but I will not get that lucky with the stud. I can use it for the moment if I toss the lock nut and Loctite it (that will get me almost the full nut of thread engagement), but it really needs to be replaced. Can I pull these studs? Or is it time to look for a Bandit 1200 front end a year earlier than I planned?

Mark

 

[earlfor]

Re: Stripped Stud - Help Required

The stud is threaded into the fork. It is a standard right rotation to tighten, left rotation to unscrew stud. Just clam a pair of vice grips on it tightly and you can turn it out.

Its a pretty easy job, shouldnt have any problem.

Earl

I have just discovered that one of the studs on the bottom of my forks (the ones that hold the axle caps on) has mostly stripped off. It went soft while I was tightening things up last night (yes, I was using a torque wrench :? ) and I pulled it off today to find both nut and stud threads mangled. I ran a tap through the nut and it cleaned up pretty good, but I will not get that lucky with the stud. I can use it for the moment if I toss the lock nut and Loctite it (that will get me almost the full nut of thread engagement), but it really needs to be replaced. Can I pull these studs? Or is it time to look for a Bandit 1200 front end a year earlier than I planned?

Mark

 

[Anonymous]

Its a pretty easy job, shouldnt have any problem.

Thanks for the quick reply, Earl (and the good news ). Is this part available from the dealer or do I find some all-thread in the correct size?


Thanks,
Mark

 

[earlfor]

I would expect a dealer would have those bolts on hand. I dont bother with the dealer. I go to the local Home Depot with the old stud, match up the thread and get a hardened metric bolt with a threaded portion long enough for my purposes. Then I hacksaw it off to the length I need. Might be less trouble though if you have a dealer close by.

Earl

Its a pretty easy job, shouldnt have any problem.

Thanks for the quick reply, Earl (and the good news ). Is this part available from the dealer or do I find some all-thread in the correct size?


Thanks,
Mark

 

[bwringer]

I replaced all these fork studs on my bike with new studs from the hardware store.

One stripped out completely, but after closer inspection all had damaged threads. It looks like the furshlugginger things were made out of warm low-grade cheddar.

The metal in the new studs is noticeably stronger, and there was no noticeable damage last time I had the wheel off.

 

[bwringer]

Oh, and replace the nuts, too.

I went with stainless steel nuts with the nylon inserts so they don't need monster torque to stay in place.

 

[Anonymous]

I replaced all these fork studs on my bike with new studs from the hardware store.

I have solved the problem in a slightly different manner. I went out today and bought s/s socket head cap screws and will simply thread them into the fork leg with s/s locknuts and Loctite. That way I replace all 4 studs (and they are all looking rough, I must say) with quality components that I never have to worry about again.

Thanks to all who helped out.

Mark

 

[Anonymous]

stainless

stainless

A word of warning about stainless steel fasteners.
They are not as strong as steel, not sure of the grade but I think it is less than a grade 5 (or the metric equivalent), I stand to be corrected on that one.
Stainless bolts/nuts have a tendancy (sp) to gall at the slightest provocation, they will stick together to the point that the pair ultimately welds together and they cannot be salvaged, nohow. If you use stainless make sure you use Locktite, oil, grease never seize or some kind of thread lubrication even on locknuts. If you want to try it put a dry 3/8" stainless bolt in a vice and turn a nut on it, you don't even have to tighten it up much before it ruined..Mike

 

[duaneage]

Re: stainless

Re: stainless

A word of warning about stainless steel fasteners.
They are not as strong as steel, not sure of the grade but I think it is less than a grade 5 (or the metric equivalent), I stand to be corrected on that one.
Stainless bolts/nuts have a tendancy (sp) to gall at the slightest provocation, they will stick together to the point that the pair ultimately welds together and they cannot be salvaged, nohow. If you use stainless make sure you use Locktite, oil, grease never seize or some kind of thread lubrication even on locknuts. If you want to try it put a dry 3/8" stainless bolt in a vice and turn a nut on it, you don't even have to tighten it up much before it ruined..Mike

He speaks the truth. You need, I think , at least a grade 6 there because of the small size and the tremendous forces present. SS is not as strong, but hardened bolts won't readily rust either because of the treatment they receive.

 

[Anonymous]

A word of warning about stainless steel fasteners.

I am aware of the galling/seizing/galvanic corrosion issues with S/S against aluminum and plan to use Loctite to prevent the dreaded seizure woes. Careful about the strength issues, though. The studs that were in there were about as hard as room temp butter and there are stainless grades that easily equal grade 5 carbon steel strengths. 18-8 stainless comes to mind immediately. Anyway, the cap screws I bought were too short, so I will be buying a new set next week after some measuring, rather than the guess I took today...

Mark

 

[first timer]

i thought stainless and aluminum play nice together, they are NOT disimilar metals or cause galvanic action to occur. i know if you use iron/steel and aluminum then they get mad at each other and antaganzie each other to corroded then they weld together.

help me understand this gauling?

-ryan

 

[bwringer]

Unprotected stainless fasteners WILL seize in aluminum. I don't know the metallurgical details, but they definitely DON'T like each other.

You MUST have something between the two metals. As stated earlier, any decent antisieze or thread locking compound will work fine.

I'm especially paranoid about the stainless bolts holding my bike's exhaust headers on. I used a high-temp antizieze, but I still loosen and re-torque these once or twice a year, just to make sure they will still move.

I'm fully aware that stainless isn't as strong as a good grade 8 bolt. It's also more brittle. However, the existing fork studs were obviously made of a very soft, low-grade steel, and were not stamped on the ends with any identifying marks. They bent easily, and one even bent and broke off with very moderate torque when I was removing them. They were definitely not grade 8.

Therefore, I feel entirely justified with replacing these inferior bits with stainless instead of equally low-grade plain steel studs.

I replace fasteners with stainless whenever possible, but not in critical, loaded applications (inside the engine, axles). The studs at the bottom of the fork only locate the axle clamp -- they do not bear the load.

I would definitely NOT replace these studs with bolts, except in an emergency. The threads in the aluminum fork leg are rather fragile, so you definitely would only want to use them once (thread in new studs) rather than many times (every time you remove the front wheel).

 

[argonsagas]

I met this one in the middle.

Bought some oversize 3/8 inch engine studs are the local Canadian Tire store (you can try your own auto store), cut off the threaded parts and re-threaded with the metric size.

Got the high strength, security, and proper fit all in one. Cheap, too.

 

[Anonymous]

galling

galling

It was described to me once that galling in S/S is caused by scratching the oxide layer on the bolt and/or nut . This allows the S/S to weld itself to the opposing piece. Makes sense to me as it's the oxide layer that gives stainless it's corrosion resistant properties.
I found this link to a more scientific explanation http://www.surfaceengineering.com/Solutions-Galling.htm .....Mike