I think I have an electircal issue

[hostar]

Bike wouldn't start today, had to push start it. Ran it for about 5 miles and it totally died. The lights on the dash couldn't even come on. Check the battery its is dead. Go home recharge it at 2 amps for about 4 hrs and the battery indicator shows me its full. Drop it back in my bike everything works fine, lights are bright, bike cranks right up. Ride for about 5-6 hrs...when i get home haed light is a little dim. Shut off my bike and it won't start again. How did my battery drain so fast? Bought this battery 3 months ago. Been pretty much riding everyday and never had a battery problem...whats going on? It is a Yusa battery

Also my turn signals sometimes work and sometimes don't. Its been getting worse recently. Everytime i hit bumps it seems to stop working and i hit a bump again and it works again. Kind of wierd never had this issue before.

Do I need to clean my wires or something. Cold weather getting to my bike?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Sounds like you need to go back & read the stator papers
in the garage section of the forum. BATTERY is not charging

[hostar]

so one ride will toast the battery?

[duaneage]

Yes, one ride will toast a battery, With the lights and all going your looking at a 10 amp draw, plus the battery takes a beating and does not recover fully.

Probably best not to ride a bike you find with a dead battery until you have an explaination. If you don't already have one, buy a cheap voltmeter from Battery Shack or a autoparts store and see what you have across the battery when the engine is running, probably 12. something and that is too low.

Suzukis are well known to have weak Voltage regulators, fortunately you can use a Honda voltage regulator cheap enough to solve the problems. You came to the right place to fix it, now run through The Stator Papers and see what is the problem (just keep in mind that the Regulator checks they talk about measure resistance as .5 volts when it should be 500 ohms)

[argonsagas]

Take Lynn's advice and do the full electrical check.

You are almost certainly going to find a charging concern.

Also...learn to ignore the charge-condition light on your battery. They are very seldom accurate and, over time, lose much of whatever accuracy they had when new.

More than once I have seen a delightful green light glowing on a car battery, (which supposedly said it had a good charge) but the glow it produced was almost its limit for power consumption....there was nothing else left.

[hostar]

sigh....ok well looks like my first purchase today is a volt meter =P

[hostar]

So did the test. ran the bike up to 4-5k rpm with the choke and my voltages is only reading 12.34

THe battery itself on full charge is 12.94 with nothing running.

Looks like I am ordering a new stator and regulator from electrosport

[hostar]

So are there any other places to order the stator and regulator? Electrosport is sold out on the stator....said it might be 30 days =(

[jimcor]

Try Dennis Kirk: www.denniskirk.com
They also carry Rick's components which many on this forum use.

[rustybronco]

How about http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...=stator+rewind and a honda regulator?

[qslim]

Try www.motorcyclesuperstore.com. I've been looking for one of these regulators for weeks, and they tell me my order will be filled and shipped today, as they just got some in. That's for the electrosport unit, by the way.

[hostar]

is this any good?

Ricks Motorsport Electrics
Hot Shot Series Regulator/Rectifier only 76.99.

* All regulator/rectifiers are new and built to OEM specifications
* 1 year wrranty
* High quality cost effective replacement for OEM
* Most with OEM-style plug end

anyone have any experiance with these?

I contacted electosport and they have my stator in stock, but not the regulator. Regulator might not come in stock till next week. So I am thinking about ordering this regulator from motorcycle superstore and using the electrosport stator?

WHat you think?

[nabrams]

I've heard people say good things about both brands.
My Electrosport R/R works great.
By the way - I hope you're getting the new stator as well only because it failed the test (80 Volts AC at 5000 RPM). Just because your R/R is toast does not necessarily mean your stator is toast.

[redliner1973]

Before you go spending $$$ and ripping apart the bike, check the connector from the stator to the regulator, take it apart and look. Mine did the same thing, and connector looked ok, until I dug deeper, and found it was burned and melted inside. removed the connector, soldered directly, added a ground wire from regulator mt screw to the battery, and she works perfect, has been now for 2 years. Total cost: $1.79 for the heat shrink tubing, and some Time..

[hostar]

hmm I will definitly check tonight just to double check.

I did the 4-5krpm check and my voltmeter was reading 12.34, they say its suppose to read 14-15.

So it should be ok with an electrosport stator and a Ricks Motorsport Electrics
Hot Shot Series R/R right?

Thanks

Before you go spending $$$ and ripping apart the bike, check the connector from the stator to the regulator, take it apart and look. Mine did the same thing, and connector looked ok, until I dug deeper, and found it was burned and melted inside. removed the connector, soldered directly, added a ground wire from regulator mt screw to the battery, and she works perfect, has been now for 2 years. Total cost: $1.79 for the heat shrink tubing, and some Time..