Basic Spark Plug Questions

[UncleMike]

The wire tools probably are easier. It occurs to me that if one finds gapping a spark plug a difficult mechanical experience, then perhaps wrenching on an engine is not the best of choices. LOL ehehehehehe

Earl

Sure, that's easy for you to say. Imagine myself, however. My dad never showed me how to do so much as use a screwdriver, because his dad was never around to show him. I've never seen someone "gap" a sparkplug, let alone know what it entails. For all I know, it could be some complicated engineering endeavor involving processes I could only dream of.

Luckily I've got this group of mechanical geniuses to walk me through the valley of the shadow of GS.

[earlfor]

hahahahah Basically, you just want to make the distance between the little round metal post inside the plug and the flat wire thinghy outside, equal to whatever the specs for your bike call for. If you have a good thumb nail and a strong thumb, you can probably "crimp" the electrode to the correct gap with your "pinkies" LOL

If you use the tap tap method, dont try to get it all the way down to spec with one big tap. Little taps and check between each tap, taking it down maybe a thou with each tap. Its correct when the guage barely will go through the gap with a slight bit of drag.

I know what you're saying. My father never owned a tool. I dont count a hammer. LOL

Earl

Sure, that's easy for you to say. Imagine myself, however. My dad never showed me how to do so much as use a screwdriver, because his dad was never around to show him. I've never seen someone "gap" a sparkplug, let alone know what it entails. For all I know, it could be some complicated engineering endeavor involving processes I could only dream of.

Luckily I've got this group of mechanical geniuses to walk me through the valley of the shadow of GS.

[UncleMike]

Thanks. And I'm serious. Not even a hammer. He brags that his only tool is his dialing finger.

[earlfor]

My father in law was like that. If a light bulb burned out, he picked up the phone and called the bulb changing company. LOL

Earl

Thanks. And I'm serious. Not even a hammer. He brags that his only tool is his dialing finger.

[Boondocks]

Feeler Gauge, We Don' Need No Stinkin' Feeler Gauge!

Certainly you can buy special tools for gapping spark plugs. You can also do the job with nothing more than a feeler guage. Your engine isnt going to know the difference between a plug gapped by a million dollar computerized gapping machine and a grey haired midget with a squint. :-)

Earl

Earl, I realize that an old guy like you (although not quite as old as me) might prefer old fangled procedures, but you have missed my point. The $2.25 gauge which you call a "special tool" is preferred not because it is easier to use (although it is), but because it is more accurate than a flat feeler gauge. Although your engine may not care about the midget, it will know the difference between accurately gapped plugs and those not accurate. I hate to be technical, but after all this is the Technical Forum.

To confirm that this is not simply my opinion and to avoid a "word war" I offer these quotes from the following links:

"A spark plug gap gauge with round wires of precise diameters is used to measure the gap; use of a feeler gauge with flat blades instead of round wires, as is used on distributor points or valve lash, will give erroneous results, due to the shape of spark plug electrodes."
Spark Plug Gap

"When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap. "
Proper Spark Plug Gapping

"The best tool to measure the gap is a round-wire gap gauge, not a flat gauge. Spend $1.89 and buy one of the disc-shaped spark plug gap tools that includes about six different wire sizes (make sure it includes 0.035" and 0.040") and a little hook shaped tool that grabs the side electrode and bends it open or closed. These tools tend to come in "ranges", such as 0.020" to 0.045" and 0.040" to 0.070".

Don't use flat feeler gauges to gap spark plugs; it is nearly impossible to get an accurate or precise setting with them. The same goes for the "tapered ramp" or stepped-flat type gauges; stick with round wire. Note that round wire is the ONLY acceptable gauge if the plug has been used, because the round wire gauges will still give accurate measurements with a slightly pitted electrode whereas the flat type will not."
Plug Gapping

"Use a wire type gauge, since it is more accurate, when gapping spark plugs."
How To Change Your Spark Plugs

"Use a wire type feeler gauge to measure the gap, do not use flat or tapered feeler gauges."
Q: How do you set the spark plug gap?

[earlfor]

I think opinion through experience is a welcome and positive plus in the forum.
I dont think I missed your point. Some things are more critical than others.
Generally, I'm fairly easy going about how to do things. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Some work better than others. If someone can do a job without risking damage and achieve the desired specs/results with non dedicated tools, I dont have a problem with that. Your information is correct, but it is not the only possible method to accomplish the task. Some members have a commercial grade shop, while others have a bare minimum of tools. The bottom line is getting the task done acceptably. I think giving the forum members a choice in methods is a good thing. Everyone can choose.
As far as I'm concerned, it isnt about who is right if both ways work. It would be nice if everyone had the exact tool they needed, but the reality is that people frequently figure out a way to make do with what they have.

I support your right to be as technical as you wish. hehehe

As for the age debate, I'm willing to concede you are MUCH older than I am. :-) :-)

Earl





[QUOTE=Boondocks]Earl, I realize that an old guy like you (although not quite as old as me) might prefer old fangled procedures, but you have missed my point. The $2.25 gauge which you call a "special tool" is preferred not because it is easier to use (although it is), but because it is more accurate than a flat feeler gauge. Although your engine may not care about the midget, it will know the difference between accurately gapped plugs and those not accurate. I hate to be technical, but after all this is the Technical Forum.

To confirm that this is not simply my opinion and to avoid a "word war" I offer these quotes from the following links:

[smithbm]

Another tool you might consider is a spark plug electrode file (or a plain old finger nail file). You use this to true the surface of the electrode. The electrode should be perfectly flat without any pitting or rounded edges. Pretty important if you're planning on reusing the old plugs.

[Rick]

Gapping

SOoooo....If I were to gap a plug with say....4K miles and the round thingy has kinda round top do I measure it from the top of the 'head' or the rounded off edges??
Seriously....the gap in my experience doesn't need to be that precise, especially after a few thousand miles and the center rounds off and the electrode starts to get concave....What I do is if it calls for .032 to .034 , I go for the lower figure ,because in very little time it will pass thru .034 and be "Out of Spec"
________________________________________Rick...... ..

[Boondocks]

SOoooo....If I were to gap a plug with say....4K miles and the round thingy has kinda round top do I measure it from the top of the 'head' or the rounded off edges??
Seriously....the gap in my experience doesn't need to be that precise, especially after a few thousand miles and the center rounds off and the electrode starts to get concave....What I do is if it calls for .032 to .034 , I go for the lower figure ,because in very little time it will pass thru .034 and be "Out of Spec"
________________________________________Rick...... ..

If you use a wire gauge the correct gap will be set even with a concave electrode. Using the lower spec is OK, and it will be an accurate measurement. This is an advantage of the wire gauge vs. a feeler gauge (which can't measure the concave area).

[smithbm]

I don't even mess around with an electrode that is pitted, concave, convex, or whatever. All it takes is a few swipes with a spark plug file to square it up. I've never done a controlled test on a motorcycle, but I've seen the benefits first hand on a lot of small engine repairs. IMHO it's just one of those little things that help your bike start a little easier when the engine is cold and may even improve your gas mileage.

[rustybronco]

If memory serves me correctly a buisness card is .010 thick, hence 3 = .030 (it will work in a pinch)
with that said buy a $2 spark plug gapper at the auto parts, and steal a finger nail file from you significant other.

[Jethro]

If your bike is a Suzuki using NGK D8EA plugs, your plug gap is between .06 and .07 which is exactly how they come from NGK.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I agree the wire type tool is best for accuracy and ease of use.
Now all we need to agree on is the e-x-a-c-t amount of resistance you should feel as you slip the wire under the electrode.

[UncleMike]

I agree the wire type tool is best for accuracy and ease of use.
Now all we need to agree on is the e-x-a-c-t amount of resistance you should feel as you slip the wire under the electrode.

I went for slight resistance/scraping at .064 at the wire tool.

[alstensby]

Can anyone tell me where to find what the recommended gap is for my bike? '82 Suzuki GS650GL. I don't have an owners manual.