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Gas Tank:Find better or Restore?

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    Gas Tank:Find better or Restore?

    Good morning! (or afternoon!)

    I've got a nice little project going on my '78 GS1000. I may have posted about it before, but quickly; Stock except for clubman bars and luggage rack, case savers, GREAT condition, but has not run several years. Texas bike/rust free 34K miles. Spoke wheels/single disc (that sucks). Price was right: free!!!

    The bike doesn't appear to have ever been in wreck of any kind, but it did take a fall in my bro-in-law's garage that put a lovely little crease in the gas tank. I've got a little body work experience, but I've frankly never messed with a fuel tank before. I'm sure they're restored all the time...

    How the heck do you pull the dent out without drilling holes/slide hammering? Do you drill the holes and braze? It's pretty deep, but should be fixable, however without pulling the dent out it's waaaaay too much bondo to fill in (at least from my stand point).

    ANY input is greatly appreciated!:-D

    #2
    You might be able to strip to the metal then weld on some rods to try to pull some of the dent out with. Then grind off what's left of the rod afterward.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Billy Ricks
      You might be able to strip to the metal then weld on some rods to try to pull some of the dent out with. Then grind off what's left of the rod afterward.
      They do that in body shops all the time spot weld a post on bare metal pull the dent with a slide hammer then twist it sideways to snap the post off then it's grind and fill, prime, block, paint ect.
      De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

      Comment


        #4
        Why didn't I think of that????

        Thanks Guys! I was all prepared to sink some screws and pull out the dents. Glad I asked...

        Forrest and trees....

        Allen Dye

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          #5
          Do we need to mention about getting all the fuel out of there first to be on the safe side8-[ ? I've heard a full tank is safer than an empty one due to less fumes but I'm not sure of what the tank prep would be for a direct spot weld. I'd clean the tank out first.

          I've seen that body work tool that spot welds a "tab" on. Pretty cool IMO. Far better in any application than drilling.
          Last edited by Guest; 07-07-2006, 12:29 AM.

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            #6
            I've also heard of filling the tank with water and placing it in a freezer to pop out dents. A crease may be too difficult for this method though.

            Comment


              #7
              I've heard of the freezer trick but if you but in too much water............
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366
                I've heard of the freezer trick but if you but in too much water............
                Ahhh...where's your sence of adventure.

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                  #9
                  Drain tank, put an air hose in it turn it on @ a low pressure and leave it run for a while to clear vapors CHECK FOR CONDENSATION! dry it out (do the sniff test first) with a hair dryer set on low.
                  De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                  http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Don't do the ice thing - you could end up popping the tank seams. The best way to do it is the weld on tabs and slide hammer trick. You can get the welder tool and a few studs (and I think the slide hammer) from Harbor Freight pretty cheap. Eastwood Company sells a few kits, but they're a little pricey.

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