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usin13
Gas?
Originally posted by 1150bob
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Originally posted by usin13No offense was meant to the multiple carbs. My entire mechanical knowledge stems from that 1961 ford Falcon, so I couldn't tell you about triumph or anything else. What is different to me is the way the engine sits. On my falcon, the carb sits right on top with a gasket. 6 cylinders use one carb where on the Suzuki each cylinder has a carb. Just completely different from what I know. You should have seen me debate the best way to check spark. I was worried that if I did it with the electric start, it would just start on the other 3 cylinders, and not knowing what kind of affect that would have on the engine. So, I have not yet checked the spark.
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usin13
Update
This morning I went and started the cycle. It started like normal. I did full choke and slowly backed off the choke. Also like usual I can only get the choke about 1/3 of the way open. I drove it to work, which is about 30 minutes, with no issues. Unfortunately, I still have some gas leaking. Not as much as I did when the petcock was on prime, but still getting some. I think however I am going to start by replacing the intake boot o rings to address the sporadic RPM. After I do that, I will look at the leak. One thing at a time I suppose. I assume it is best to just get a solid idle first and then start working on the other issues. Is that correct?
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It's a VERY bad idea to continue riding a bike with possible intake leak or any lean running issues -- it can quickly overheat the engine and lead to some pretty gruesome engine damage.
I'd post photos of the horrible remains of my bike's original exhaust valves (damaged by intake leaks), but they're just too graphic for a family forum...1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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Take off your fuel line going to the petcock and put a temp one running to a bucket or something. Pull the vacuum line off the bike but leave it on the petcock. Suck on the vacuum line on Prime and it should run even when you remove vacuum. On run the petcock should only spew gas with vacuum applied to the line. If you get a mouth full of gas rebuild time. If you don't have good flow, rebuild time. You also need to check your float needle and seats because they are not shutting off gas flow.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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usin13
Originally posted by bwringerIt's a VERY bad idea to continue riding a bike with possible intake leak or any lean running issues -- it can quickly overheat the engine and lead to some pretty gruesome engine damage.
I'd post photos of the horrible remains of my bike's original exhaust valves (damaged by intake leaks), but they're just too graphic for a family forum...
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usin13
Thanks for that info. I will do that either tomorrow or Friday as I replace the o rings. Do you think doing it before the o rings, or after is better?
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usin13
Update
Tonight I took off my gas tank, air filter assembly, and carbs so I could get to my intake boots. The first bolt I tried came off no problem so I thought I was golden. After that, I only got one more bolt off, so tomorrow it's to the store to get an impact wrench. When I couldn't get more bolts off I took a look at the petcock. I turned it to On, sucked a little on the vacuum hose and got a nice flow out the gas line. As soon as I stopped sucking, it stopped flowing. So, I feel that my petcock is fine. I guess that leaves the carbs for the leak.
I also cleaned up the outside of the carbs. I took off the vent lines and tried to blow air through them (with my mouth, not a compressor) and one of them would not allow me to blow any are through and one would only allow a little air through. The one was completely plugged at the end and I smacked it on my workbench and the dirt fell out and I could blow through it easily. I did the same to the other one and that worked as well. Obviously I should replace them. What effect did those two vent lines being plugged have on the engine (just curious)?
I also drained the bowls and am glad to say that I got the same amount of gas out of each bowl and it was very clean, not dirt/grime.
So tomorrow I'll get the impact wrench and some hex head bolts, replace the o-rings, put it back together and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for all the help so far.
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usin13
One other thing
When I got to the point on the carb where I had to remove the throttle cables, one wasn't even connected to the carb, it was just kind of sitting there. It was the one that is connected to the piece that the idle adjustment screw hits. Why are there two cables? I only had one hooked up and it seemed to be working fine, so what's the benefit of the second?
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If your vent tubes were clogged then this could be your problem. You can hold fluid in a straw by blocking one end, release the end and the fluid will flow. Same theory.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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usin13
Originally posted by bwringerHere are the intake boots between the carbs and the engine, a common source of nasty intake leaks:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
These photos and part numbers are from a GS850; your bike will look about the same if it's an early 8 valve 750, although the part numbers are different.
I'm still a little shocked to not see a single o ring.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by usin13.
I'm still a little shocked to not see a single o ring.
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usin13
Success
Great news! I put on the o rings, intake books, carbs, air filter and gas tank. I put the petcock to prime to get some fuel back in the bowls. I tried to start it up like normal, with full choke. I got nervous because it wouldn't start. Turn of the choke and started right up. Turned the petcock to on, adjusted the idle and low and behold, it idles at about 1200 RPM nice and smooth. :-D I then took it for a drive. Drove a couple of blocks before my first stop sign. I pulled in the clutch and....it idled at abou 1200 RPM. Took it for a 20 minute or so ride and still no problem. I forgot to put the carb vent lines back on, but I'll do that tomorrow.
I also didn't see any gas leaking. I'll check again tomorrow as it will be on the side stand all night.
I do have one more question. It seems as though everyone has to order those o rings from their dealership. The Suzuki parts/service shop around here had them in stock. I watched them look it up by part number in the computer, so I know that he looked up the right one and they claim it is not just rubber. Should I trust them? I'm only curious because no one else's parts place seems to carry them.
Thanks again.Last edited by Guest; 07-14-2006, 11:56 PM.
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beby99
Originally posted by usin13I do have one more question. It seems as though everyone has to order those o rings from their dealership. The Suzuki parts/service shop around here had them in stock. I watched them look it up by part number in the computer, so I know that he looked up the right one and they claim it is not just rubber. Should I trust them? I'm only curious because no one else's parts place seems to carry them.
Thanks again.
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usin13
Originally posted by beby99They should be fine. Did they come in Suzuki packaging? If not I would question them.
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