Bad News for me

[duaneage]

1. Check the oil filter for metal, drain the oil and check for shiny bits, etc.

2. Oil on the plugs? If not, then the bottom end is probably OK.

3. I tore down an 850 that had the same symptoms. Bad head gasket on the middle two is what I found, so YES it is possible that the head gasket went.

4. Retorque on the head bolts may fix it. Cheap and worth a try.

5. could be a cracked head. Bad but not terminal since heads are available and easier to ship than an engine.

What preceded the event? Hot day idling? Drag racing missed shift? Long storage? The answers sometimes lie in the history.

[nabrams]

relic rider, I don't see how it could be a blown head gasket between cylinders 2 and 3, because we've got a cam-chain tunnel inbetween.

nabrams, to take off the head and cylinder block, it isn't necessary to pull the engine out of the frame.

Jethro's question about the valve clearances is definitely worth following up, esp. as you only need to pop off the cam cover to check them.

Hi tfb,

So the 1100 has enough clearance to get the head off without removing the engine? My 1981 CB750 certainly does not, and everyone on this site told me I'd need to remove the engine.

[rustybronco]

cylinders one and four have 120 to 130 lbs(?) compression, two and three have 20 or less.

Jumped time with 120-130 psi? doesn't sound correct but anythings possible. the plus is you can check it with the cover off too.

[paul56]

I know a 78 750 can have the head gasket redone without removing the engine.My mechanic said " good thing you don't have a Honda,as the whole engine would have to come out.

[RacingJake]

I'd double check that compression on 2&3 again, cause if they left the tank on I'd bet they didn't screw the gage tester's hose all the way in causing a leak. I'd also check the valves making sure the gap is right. Also like the other folks said look around the head for a blown head gasket. It may just be something simple like a bad coil or carb problem.

[tfb]

G'day nabrams,

My 1981 CB750 certainly does not, and everyone on this site told me I'd need to remove the engine

1. Yes, I was able to rebuild the top end of my 1100 ('81 Katana) with the engine in place; head and cylinder block came out no worries at all (photos here). Same with the GS1000S I used to have.
2. I just checked a Suzuki service manual I have for the GS750, and it's interesting, but in a list of "components removable with the engine in place" it includes "pistons" ... I presume that would have to include cylinder head and cylinder block?
3. Hmm, it may be that the "L"-style models have less clearance when it comes to dismantling the engines in the frame? I could well be wrong on this score but I would hate to see someone go through all the work removing the entire donk if it turned out not to be necessary.

So if anyone has any advice from direct experience on pulling GS1100"L" heads & cylinder blocks with the engine still in the frame, now's the time to speak up!

[Rake78GS]

Ya know what? Follow the advice of all the fine and knowagable (sp?) folks on here!

But even IF (!!!) the motor IS blown and too expensive to fix, you can always pick up another motor and put it in the frame for a LOT cheeper than buying another bike that WILL need work.

[mrquadriga]

I feel ashamed however in that "pulling" the covers and cam cover bolts and other things like that are foreign to me. I know, what a maroon....I have it in my garage now and will begin by draining the oil this morning. The questions I asked at the shop were, it was a dry test. The plugs didn't look too bad. There is a gasket leaking. (I'm assuming it's the head gasket since it's near the exhaust pipes area) Next question, this spring I had my tank relined by a radiator shop. Since this project is going to take some time, I would assume I have to take off the tank? And if I take off the tank, should I do anything special to the tank to keep it from rusting inside? I just want to do things right so that I can avoid other problems on down the road. Thanks to all.-Pete

[ScottMc1100L]

Ashamed nothing...I'm scared to adjust my valves for the first time, solo. I want someone to watch and hit me in the back of the head with a wrench or something "No, not like that!" I know in my mind it's not a big deal but I also know if you don't do it right you can cause more harm than good.

Is there anyone near our forum brother Pete, willing to lend a hand?

[DanTheMan]

Pete,
I just caught this thread. I'm coming to Duluth to teach the BRC this weekend, leaving at around noon today. PM me with the particulars to your place and I can swing by. Looks like our ride is off...........
Dan

[Deesel]

I have never took the topend apart on my GLZ in the frame, but I have pulled the motor out several times. Its not too bad of a job. The biggest trouble is the weight of the engine- Its heavy but I have done it three times so far by myself. My freinds are like calluses- they show up when the work is done!
The main thing on pulling and installing the engine on a GL is to roll it out of the right side (throttle side) of the frame.
I have purchased 2 good GS engines off ebay for $150 each- 1 850, 1 1000. Both of these engines were "bolt in and go".
So even if you were to have catastrophic damage to your engine, with some mechanical inclination, a small amount of funds and the desire, you can have it up and running in no time!
Especially with this website- You can do it!!!
Good Luck

[ifly85]

Just found this thread today and I can confirm that the cylinder head and cylinder can be removed without removing the engine on any 1100 shafty. In fact I believe that it is true for any 750 and up shafty according to the manual.

I have both of mine off right now. I just broke a middle piston ring while installing the cylinder, so I am searching for rings. Any suggestions. Looks like Bike Bandit may have it.

[ifly85]

I feel ashamed however in that "pulling" the covers and cam cover bolts and other things like that are foreign to me. I know, what a maroon....I have it in my garage now and will begin by draining the oil this morning. The questions I asked at the shop were, it was a dry test. The plugs didn't look too bad. There is a gasket leaking. (I'm assuming it's the head gasket since it's near the exhaust pipes area) Next question, this spring I had my tank relined by a radiator shop. Since this project is going to take some time, I would assume I have to take off the tank? And if I take off the tank, should I do anything special to the tank to keep it from rusting inside? I just want to do things right so that I can avoid other problems on down the road. Thanks to all.-Pete

If your fuel tank was coated internally then you could just leave the fuel in and set it aside without rust worries. However, if you find that it will be a long wait, then drain and just leave it empty. Remeber, all of this is if it was coated internally. Mine is slightly white inside from Kreem brand liner.

[rustybronco]

IF its going to be a while (months) and the tank has not been coated fill it up with fuel or drain and fogg it.

[earlfor]

Engine removal is not required to replace pistons, rings, base and head gaskets, etc on an 1100. Everything down to the engine crankcase/transmission is removable with the engine mounted in the frames. Been there, done that.

Earl