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    Rear axle dilema

    I have a 1982 GS1100GLZ that I am replacing the tires on (first time for me on this bike). I have attempted to reference the Clymers manual for my model but find most of the instructions are general procedure instructions and not exact model specific. All necessary nuts, bolts, etc are either loose or removed. My concern is driving out the rear axle. How hard do I have to beat on this thing? I don't want to break anything. Everything seems to be loose except for the brake caliper bracket. It seems to be "frozen" to the axle. I can move or spin everything else independently except for the bracket. Do I just need to beat the devil out of it until it breaks loose (or until something just breaks)?

    Enormous thanks in advance.

    #2
    You can hit it pretty dang hard, but it's hard to describe how hard to hit something without being there in person.

    Hmmmm...

    I have a large ball pien hammer that I might use sparingly in a similar predicament, but I wouldn't want to start whacking on this with my small 2 pound sledge. Then again, one mighty whack with the sledge might be better than pounding on it for hours with something smaller.

    Tough to get any sort of bear whiz solvent in there, too, and solvents aren't likely to do much anyway with the corrosion between the aluminum brake bracket and the steel axle.

    Not much way of turning the axle, either.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm...
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
    Eat more venison.

    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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      #3
      Try penitrating oil

      Try using penitrating oil first... connect the lil spray tube and lightly spray aroound the calliper mount... then try the tapping ..//(whacking) with the hammer... just don't bugger up the threads on the end.. you can put a solid round stock in the end of the axle and and then tap the brake housing one way or the other,, at least mine haas the holes in the end of the axle.. (gs550) both the "e" and the basic model.....

      JP

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        #4
        Update

        OK - Checked with a local motorcycle shop to see if there is a "miracle" solvent or how they attack this problem. They laughed and said "Beat the hell out of it" basically, if a ball peen hammer doesn't work, try a small sledge, if that don't work - use a bigger sledge. either way something will break loose. Another so-called expert suggested trying "Sea Foam" brand penetrating fluid. It seemed to work when all others failed. Any experience or other suggestions?

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          #5
          spray with pb blaster put the nut back on flush with the axle, hold a 2x4 on the nut and shaft get a 48 oz'r (hammer not beer) and hit moderately spray and repeat as necessary before you whack it harder, let 'er soak, patience!
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

          Comment


            #6
            One crazy thing I heard of a while back was that someone attached the leads from an arc welder to either end of the axle and electrically heated the axle for a few minutes. After a few more minutes to cool a bit, the still-warm axle was easily batted free.

            I have no idea what the proper settings for the welder would be, whether this would actually work, or what, but it does seem that heat could be helpful in this situation. You don't want to melt anything, but getting the axle hot enough to fry an egg shouldn't hurt anything. But for Pete's sake, make sure you understand what you're doing electrically so you don't blow up your GS. Maybe a welder can step in here with some advice...

            You could also try the paraffin trick once the axle is hot -- touch a candle to the offending junction, and let some of the wax get drawn in to lubricate the problem area. Miracles have been performed this way.

            Personally, I would also replace the wheel bearings after spending this much time beating on the axle and possibly heating things up.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
            2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
            Eat more venison.

            Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

            Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

            SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

            Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks To All

              After persistant determination, many swear words, 43 different penetrating oils and (gulp) a 12 pound sledge, it broke loose - time for a little Johnny Walker Black Label to celebrate. Once again, thanks to all for your input.

              Comment


                #8
                Ummmmmmmmmm johnny walker black label and water....none better
                De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sorry - straight up on the rocks (if the ice melts before I finish it - then it's "with water").

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Sorry! but then you would have to sip it, i'm usually to thirsty for that.

                    but you have great taste!!!!!!!!!!!!
                    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                    Comment

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