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    Time for some work

    In case its not in my sig, I ride an 81 GS1000GL with 28000 miles. Stock airbox/filter, slightly modded exhaust (stock Sportster muffs. Cheap!! (Free, actually)). 2 sizes up main jets, shimmed needles. Intake O-rings replaced, carbs thoroughly rebuilt.

    So, this season, I noticed my base gasket is starting to weep/leak. So, I intend to change it out this winter.

    Bike runs fair, not great though. Idle isn't smooth/consistent, and plug reads have always shown a bit lean. It seems to have decent power, but not at all what I would expect for a litre bike. It doesn't sound as, err, 'refined' as other GS bikes I have heard. I experience a little oil loss, but I dont know where it is going. I've never seen smoke out the exhaust, and it doesn't leave any drips on the garage floor.

    So, onward. Since I have to disassemble the top end to do the base gasket, I figured it would be a good time to maybe re-ring the engine as well. Decarbon everything, etc.

    Did a compression test last night, and it came out:
    Dry: 115 105 105 110
    Wet: 145 150 150 155

    So, I definitely am going to want to re-ring it. Whether I'll need new oversized pistons/rings I won't be able to tell until I disassemble the engine.

    I'm also thinking:
    -Check cam chain stretch
    -Check valve guides (should be OK considering leakdown values)
    -Replace cam chain guides
    -New intake pipes
    -Lap valves/seats
    -New ignition (Dyna S?)
    -Of course adjust valve clearances

    I'll stick with the stock airbox setup, as I prefer the torquiness over top end HP..

    What I should need:
    Gasket kit
    Cam chain guides
    Cam chain (hopefully not!!)
    Valve spring compressor (can I make one?)
    Rings
    Possibly pistons
    Intake boots
    Anti-seize for exhaust re-assembly
    Oil
    2 Oil Filters
    Beer

    Is there anything I'm missing for this project? Should be a fun winter's project. What's the best source for the parts right now? I usually like Bike Bandit, as their service is good, despite often higher prices. Ron Ayers was slow, but had good prices.


    Thanks all!

    #2
    ..anyone have some advice here?

    Comment


      #3
      You have a service manual / Other Reading material to help you out? Figure you should be able to make up an initial list of what you might need from that guy

      I'll be doing an overhaul on my GS750 this winter too so I am in the search for a shopping list as well.

      Aurora Suzuki might be a good local place to snag parts too. Give you a local shop to pickup from too, they had oversized pistons and rings....ofcourse liek you said you won't know if you need oversize until you take it apart this winter. Good luck with your rebuild.... I'm sure we will both need it...I'm in the Seattle area too =)
      Last edited by Guest; 09-11-2006, 07:53 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Well, an update..

        Have the engine disassembled.

        Took the jugs in to a local machine shop, and had them measure the bore size and taper, as well as clean and remove the old gaskets. It measured out beautiful, with no measurable taper or out of round, with the size well within std (not limit) measurements on all 4. He lightly honed the bores, and its ready for reinstall! Heh, well, the jugs are ready..

        I'm just starting on the head. I need to decarbon the ex ports as well as the head itself. I do have the valves out.

        Any suggestions for gentle methods to decarbon/degunk the head and valves? I of course want to be particularly careful with the valve seats and seating faces. I'm thinking for those areas, only plastic tools..? Once I'm done with my cleaning, I'll take it to the shop and have him clean it and remove the gasket residue with whatever magic he used on the cylinders.

        Oh, and any tips on where to get the molybdenum disulfide lube that is needed for the valve stem ends/cam lobes/cam bearings/etc during reassembly?

        Comment


          #5
          jgordon and I are doing a 1166 kit on my 1100. Here is the list of things that I bought.
          Valve cover gasket
          Head gasket
          Base gasket
          Cam chain tensioner gasket
          Breather gasket
          Pistons
          Rings
          Wrist pins
          Piston C-clips
          Ring compressors(lg hose clamps)
          Clutch cover gasket
          Stator cover gasket
          Cylinder o-rings
          Blue loctite
          Rubber mallet
          Magnet bolt retriever
          Exhaust gaskets
          Assembly oil
          If you are putting the cylinder on yourself remember to set the ring end gap.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Take the head to someone with a steam cleaner/ typhoon, It works great and will not harm the aluminium

            Comment


              #7
              You should be in good shape installing new valve stem seals and very lightly lapping the valves - mainly to check the contact area. Vesrah makes a nice gasket that's quite a bit less expensive than the stock Suzuki parts and includes everything you will need to put the engine back together - including new intake O-rings.

              Good luck.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                I agree if you have a local auto machine shop have them clean it SHouldn't cost but a few dollars IT IS WELL WORTH THE MONEY

                Comment


                  #9
                  You guys are forgetting the most important tool of all.....Beer!:-D

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                    You guys are forgetting the most important tool of all.....Beer!:-D
                    Well, it was in my list in the first post.. \\/

                    Anyhow, back to the topic at hand, any miracle ways to remove carbon deposits from aluminum heads?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by condensr View Post
                      Well, it was in my list in the first post.. \\/

                      Anyhow, back to the topic at hand, any miracle ways to remove carbon deposits from aluminum heads?
                      Have the engine shop do it!! it is worth the little extra.
                      Other options, brass wire brushes, drill mounted and hand and a lil elbow grease.

                      Dink

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Berrymans Carb Cleaner. I use it to dip volkswagen cases and heads.I had to get 4 five gallon cans to totally emerse a vw case.Its expensive but if you take care of it you will have cleaner for 2 or 3 yrs. Store it in a polyethelene barrel. It might not get every bit of carbon but it will soften whats left and a hard plastic scraper will normally do it. DO NOT PUT RUBBER OR PAINTED PARTS IN IT.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well, my 'winter' project has gone a little late.

                          Got the head back from the machine shop, clean as can be. A valve guide broke while he was removing the valve seals, so I had to order a new one. That's all done, valves are de-carboned, so now all I have to do is decarbon 3 more pistons, drop the oil pan, flush the engine of any junk that fell in during disassembly, lube and reassemble.

                          I'm going to need to source some valve shims for at least the #1 cylinder where the guide was replaced, as he re-cut the seat on that hole as well. Kind of annoying, but oh well.

                          What do you all use for assembly lube? My local supplier did not have molybdenum disulfide assembly lube, but they did have a different moly lube by Sta-Lube. Will that work?

                          Paint work will have to wait for next winter, as I want to ride!
                          Last edited by Guest; 06-16-2007, 02:01 AM. Reason: Correction

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I don't think it matters what kind of assembly lube you use so long as its specific to the job of lubing parts during rebuilds. I don't recommend it per say but I typically just use regular engine oil unless there is a new cam involved.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by condensr View Post
                              Any suggestions for gentle methods to decarbon/degunk the head and valves? I of course want to be particularly careful with the valve seats and seating faces. I'm thinking for those areas, only plastic tools..? Once I'm done with my cleaning, I'll take it to the shop and have him clean it and remove the gasket residue with whatever magic he used on the cylinders.
                              wire wheel lightly applied to the valves, oak stick and carb cleaner and rags for the combustion chambers and ports (it takes off clear so becareful)
                              Originally posted by condensr View Post
                              Oh, and any tips on where to get the molybdenum disulfide lube that is needed for the valve stem ends/cam lobes/cam bearings/etc during reassembly?
                              suzuki/honda dealer
                              Originally posted by condensr View Post
                              beer
                              beer store.
                              EDIT*** molybendium chassis grease also applied to the cam lobes works. (if you can find it)
                              Last edited by rustybronco; 06-16-2007, 11:14 AM.
                              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                              Comment

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