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    sync problems!

    When i hook up my sync tool i cant seem to keep an idle long enough to do any setting adjustment but when i have the tank on everything is fine and yes I did plug my vacumn line.is it because the fuel line is open? i dont have an auxillary fuel tank so Im hoping that's the problem. Any suggestions??????

    #2
    Get some extra hose, and use your gas tank as an auxilary tank. Set it up high enough on your workbench so it will drain properly. No way can you do the sync just with the gas in float bowls at least in my experience. Also use a couple of fans to keep things cool.

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      #3
      Originally posted by mark View Post
      Get some extra hose, and use your gas tank as an auxilary tank. Set it up high enough on your workbench so it will drain properly. No way can you do the sync just with the gas in float bowls at least in my experience. Also use a couple of fans to keep things cool.

      About 4 feet of 5/16 should do the trick, make sure that the petcock is in the PRIME position, also.

      Good luck Tim...pm if you want.

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        #4
        i tried putting a small funnel in the fuel line and pouring gas in but it sucks it down quick and then the idle soars!Where can i get and peice to go inbetween the carb fuel line and the aux. fuel line to splice them together?When I had a smaller fuel line and an inline fuel filter it did not do this.

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          #5
          I use about three feet of 5/16 fuel line that has a two way hose connector on it so I don't have to unhook the fuel line to the carb T. I do the same with a 1/4 inch vacuum line for the petcock. I use my large plastic trash can to put my fuel tank on.
          As Earl said blow a fan on your headers so the bike doesn't overheat. It will mess up your readings when operating under normal temps.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            I use an empty 1 quart bottle that gear lube comes in with a small hole drilled in the bottom of the container, put your finger over the hole fill with gas, screw the cap on, attach the fuel line to the nipple, flip it over and hang it from the bars.
            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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              #7
              I got the fuel ine and in line connector but cant I just go ahead and plug the vacumn line with a golf tee?

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                #8
                Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that you should do the sync with the bike at around 3K RPM. To prevent the bike from overheating you will need some fans blowing onto the front of the engine. Use the gnurled idle knob, below the carbs, to set the idle speed up.

                Brad bt

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by tconroy View Post
                  I got the fuel ine and in line connector but cant I just go ahead and plug the vacumn line with a golf tee?
                  As long as you get a good seal-off, you're fine. Vacuum line doesn't need to be plugged in to the tank. Just keep your tank on "prime" when you want gas flowing.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by bradleymaynar View Post
                    Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that you should do the sync with the bike at around 3K RPM. To prevent the bike from overheating you will need some fans blowing onto the front of the engine. Use the gnurled idle knob, below the carbs, to set the idle speed up.

                    Brad bt
                    the last time I did a sync i had no problems.I have just had the carbs off several times and bought a sync tool so I didnt have to borrow one from a friend.For my bike it is recommend to set idle at 1750 but I choose 2000rpm's cause it settles the mercury down some.I have just done a lot of work to it in the last 2 months.New needle valve seats and o-rings, rebuilt cam chain tensioner and changed fuel lines to get rid of the 1/4" and filter.i was in a hurry when i tried this.Moral or the story is ...get the right stuff and have enough time to do it right!I will let you know the results.I guess I was just lucky the first time when it set quickly with just the fuel in the bowls.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by tconroy View Post
                      the last time I did a sync i had no problems.I have just had the carbs off several times and bought a sync tool so I didnt have to borrow one from a friend.For my bike it is recommend to set idle at 1750 but I choose 2000rpm's cause it settles the mercury down some.I have just done a lot of work to it in the last 2 months.New needle valve seats and o-rings, rebuilt cam chain tensioner and changed fuel lines to get rid of the 1/4" and filter.i was in a hurry when i tried this.Moral or the story is ...get the right stuff and have enough time to do it right!I will let you know the results.I guess I was just lucky the first time when it set quickly with just the fuel in the bowls.
                      My suggestion is, I think, based on the Clymer Manual. However, Clymer also is going by the Suzuki tool which uses air and plastic balls. So, I don't think the RPM value is that important. Another suggestion, perhaps you should run the bike a bit first to get the engine up around normal operation temp, and then try hooking up the sync tool. Less likely that it'll die before you can perform the sync.

                      And, yes, a bit of patience will pay off.

                      Brad bt

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                        #12
                        i did run the bike .i have the blisters to prove it!i wish there was a way to put the brass tubes in the boots without burning the ##$$ out of your hand.The good thing is when it revs up to 4 grand the merc doesnt climb high enough to get sucked into the engine so I think I will hook it up first, then get my fans going and fuel line hooked up Then set them.At least that way i can wait till it warms up and idles correctly.Sometime you get in a hurry and wind up putting your foot in your mouth.I should know better!Thanks for your advice,I appreicate it.I also got my info about the 1750 rpm's from my clymers manual and it shows the merc carb tool like i got.

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                          #13
                          You may want to try some rubber caps over the sycn tubes. That way you only need to pull the plugs in order to attach the manometer lines. It has been mentioned before about leaving the tubes in place and using caps on the sync tubes before. The only downfall is that there is always the possibility of losing the caps while riding.

                          Brad bt

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                            #14
                            Whatever fuel source you use, it must be vented as well as the tank provides.
                            Mechanics gloves are nice and grippy and make a perfect stocking stuffer.
                            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
                              Whatever fuel source you use, it must be vented as well as the tank provides.
                              Mechanics gloves are nice and grippy and make a perfect stocking stuffer.
                              So My gas tank with a long fuel line will be fine?I was looking for some caps but cant find them in a hardware store.I think I will get the mechanics glove like you suggested, Keith.The weird thing is I can take my bike apart and rebuild the cam chain tensioner and have it all back together and running in 3 hours but Im having trouble with something as simple as syncing the carbs! Go figure.Also what do the increments on the carb synce gauge mean?My book say's to set the outside carbs 2 1/2 to 3 cfm's higher than the middle.Are the numbers on the stick that start at 2- 4- 6 and so on marked in cfm?In other word's if # 3 reads 10 should I set the outside carbs at 12.5 to 13 on the gauge?It is stock exhaust.
                              Last edited by Guest; 04-03-2007, 09:46 PM.

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