Fork special tool

[Redman]

I got forks off the bike (1100GK, seals slobbering real bad after traileiring to Florida and back, 4 degrees F didnt help either). Have the cap off, the oil poured out, the spring out. Am attempting to loosen the allen bolt on the bottom. Clymers manaul describes how have to hold the dampening rod with a special tool. Or can make a special tool with a 19mm bolt head on a 24 inch reach rod. Suzuki manaul just gives some part number for the special tool.

Any other tricks? Or do I pretty much have to make some sort of special tool? I tried a tire iron but not long enough even if it were about the right size to fit.

[bonanzadave]

Any other tricks? Or do I pretty much have to make some sort of special tool? I tried a tire iron but not long enough even if it were about the right size to fit.

Do the search. Tons of great reading. The special tool to hold the dampening rod ? 5/8 plug socket, backwards on a long extension and 3/8 ratchet. Also a 5/16 (8mm) allen socket on a 3/8 ratchet. Wanna see a pic ? I did it myself but it was a ball buster. I think the 10x1mm fork bolts had lock tight on them. This would be easier with 2 people. I came close to striping the heads so Im waiting for 2 new bolts from Suzui.

[t3rmin]

Check my recent thread on changing the seals *without* separating the tubes. Much easier.

[saddlewarmer]

spent 60 cents at a hardware store and got 2 ea 19 mm nuts. welded them to a 30 inch steel rod. put down in the fork tube, allen wrench on one end, ratchet on the other. no problem. you could find a threaded rod for the nuts and doublenut the ends and probably work just as good as welding it.

[Steve]

I did pretty much the same thing without the welding.
I used 5/8" all-thread rod about 2 feet long, and four nuts.
Jam two nuts together at each end, leaving an inch or two of threads sticking out.

Works real nice, and it's only about $5 for parts. \\/

Here is a picture of the whole tool:


Here is a picture of one end:

[rustybronco]

12mm bolt 1-1/2" long, 2 12mm nuts on the threaded end of said bolt, jammed tightly together, 19mm socket and the proper 24" extention.
I had the extention or I would have used the threaded rod idea.

[Redman]

Okay, now I see other postings about blowing out the seal with air or hydraulic pressure. I like that idea for the fact of not having to dissasemble as much. BUt hesitant to try that for concern about blowing thru other seals (but dont really know).

The idea of a 19mm bolt welded on a rod is great for the fact of being the correct size. But welding not directly available to me.

The idea of 19mm bolt and wrench extensions is nice for the fact of being correct size. But I wonder about the possibilty of it getting stuck and the extension comming apart down inside there.

The idea of 5/8 threaded rod seemed strange because not really the right size. BUt seemed to be the option that I could try this morning. SO I did. Great. THe 5/8th rod avaialbe in 2 ft length for about $4, and with the 4 nuts was the total was just over $5. ANd the 5/8" nuts are the size of a 15/16th wrench which is just slightly less than a 24mm wrench.

What I was confusing is that the Clymers manual says "19mm bolt", which I failed to think about that being a 24mm wrench size.

Thanks guys. Now on to the next part.

[bonanzadave]

When you pull the dampening rod out there will be a bushing on the end (If it does not fall off into the fork leg) The bushing has a big end and a small end. Let me know which end goes up.

Thanks, Dave

[salty_monk]

I used the seal blowing out trick (after buying the Craftsman socket, it's the only one you can reverse & enough extensions)... oh well. It was only a few bucks.

Doing it with air pressure worked great & is definitely the way I would do it again!

Dan

[Redman]

B-Dave, Have sent PM.

Dan, Sounds good. Can do with hand pump I understand.

[Suzuki mad]

Ok, so no access to a welder. Not a problem.

Length of studding, two 19mm nuts and some locktite or thread glue stuff. Put the two nuts on a small amount of thread lock and tighten them together.

Small hammer and a punch and turn over the last thread on the studding showing and the nuts should be locked in place.

Job done.

If that fails use a peice of old fishing rod (wooden if possible) and jam that in. Works just as well but may not suit the purists...

Suzuki mad

1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1
1981

[Redman]

B-Dave,
This thing?
It goes such that the dampening rod fits into it. And such that "it" doesnt add much length to the dampening rod.


In this pic can also see the highly specialised fork tool.
Thanks guys.
.

[bonanzadave]

Thanks Dave,

I think thats the way I have it. Still waiting on the 10x1mm fork bolts I striped. Did yours have crush washers under the bolts ? Lock tight on the threads ?

[NATEO]

I tried the air method, to no avail... but I got a 20$ impact wrench at walmart, and the allen bit (6mm, 1/2" drive) and the thing just came right out!

I highly recommend just taking it apart... it takes like 30 seconds more...

also, you can just use 1 1/2" PVC piping to get the new seal in... (or at least it fit on my forks...)