Blown Fuses

[B Evil]

I have an 81 GS 550 L with electrical issues I was hoping you all would be able to assist me with.

I rode her in to work last night with no problems. Took her to breakfast and still everything was fine. Got off work this morning and she started just fine but I let her warm up for a couple of minutes. As I eased the choke off she died and no lights were lit on the guages. The main 15 amp fuse was blown. Pulled the old fuse and put a new one in and it blew instantly and the ignition key was off. I pulled all the other fuses (lights, ignition, etc.) and put another new fuse in the main fuse slot and again it blew instantly. I figured since the key was off and the fuses to everything else were pulled, it has to be a short in the wiring somewheres, right? Can I rule out the circuits that the fuses were pulled from (lights, ignition, etc.) as the faults since no power should have been going thru these circuits? Anybody have anything similar happen? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bradley

[justmount1]

you cant really rule these out because if your main was blown your not getting power to any of those, but i just had a similar problem and it happened to be my rectifier so check to see if it is bad before you start going to work on the wiring.

[Tom MLC]

I just had a main fuse issue. Blew the 15 amp fuse on the highway. I replaced it and made it home. Later I found I was no longer charging the battery. Which led me to find two melted wires from the rectifier.

[firstimer850]

Ditto on the main fuse issue. I have had a problem since I got my bike a year ago. Two wires from the rectifier were melted as Tom mentioned. I tested the stator and it checked out fine. Am about to test the rectifier as I type. Look to the stator pages for more clues.

[rkubik]

possiblility: ignition switch

same kind of fuse-blowing thing happened to me, leaving me stranded several places, final time in the middle of busy bridge.

Extensive multimeter diagnostics finally traced it to a short circuit within the worn-out ignition switch (orange and green wires leading to switch on mine, maybe different colour wires on yours). Solution: remove and replace with a new Emgo one available from any usual source for about $25.

The reason I suspected the switch at all was that the key was able to be pulled out in the on and run positions, so something was worn out in there. A few weeks later this problem cropped up.

The only irritation is that now I have one more key to deal to deal with. Could be remedied I suppose, but not that big a problem.

[rustybronco]

Could be remedied I suppose, but not that big a problem.

yes it can, I did it on the honda.

[rkubik]

how?

details please!

[Steve]

Most of the locks that accept double-sided keys only have pins on one side. One way to use one key for two different locks (ignition and fuel/seat) is to copy the ignition key on one side of a new blank, the fuel key on the other side. Then you only have to mark the key and remember which way to put it in the lock.

Another way is to take the lock to a locksmith and have it re-pinned to match your old key.


.

[argonsagas]

The bike was running and then quit suddenly, so there may be a loose wire that is shorting the circuit and the most likely place would be between the fuse block and the ignition switch.

Check that first.


It is possible that a stator coil has shorted, but more likely the regulator/rectifier has quit. Having both go is not uncommon.

Disconnect the R/R cable connector and plug in a new main fuse. Then turn on the ignition and start the bike.

All OK?

Off to the "Stator papers" found on this site at In the Garage, and follow the instructions.

[B Evil]

So if I disconnect the Rectifier and it doesn't blow the fuse then the rectifier needs replaced, correct? If it still blows the fuse I can rule out the rectifier and go through the same process with the stator? And if it still blows, I need to start looking at the ignition switches and for lose or shorted wires, right?

Thanks for the help.
-Bradley

[B Evil]

Well I just unplugged the rectifier and popped in a new fuse and she fired right up. So the rectifier is the problem, correct? Anyone know where to get a new one cheap? Do you think I'd be able to make it home (12 city miles at 35mph) on one battery with the rectifier unplugged. Other wise it's going to be sitting in parking lot at work :shock: untill early next week when I can get the rectifier.

Thanks for the help.
-Bradley

[rustybronco]

details please!

Well first off disassemble the cylinder then you can swap the pins around to fit your ignition key, some pins you may have to file down (with the key inserted) or remove one or two pins. I did both the seat and fuel door cylinders on the honda to fit the ignition. can't remember whether it was a pin or a clip that held it together after it was removed but it wasn't hard to do. I can look at the gs if you like or start ripping yours apart and if you need help I can be pm'd.

[rustybronco]

Well I just unplugged the rectifier and popped in a new fuse and she fired right up. So the rectifier is the problem, correct? Anyone know where to get a new one cheap? Do you think I'd be able to make it home (12 city miles at 35mph) on one battery with the rectifier unplugged. Other wise it's going to be sitting in parking lot at work :shock: untill early next week when I can get the rectifier.

Thanks for the help.
-Bradley

Yes, 12 miles (1/3-1/2 hour drive time?) with a fully charged battery should be no problem, but just in case have someone follow you with jumper cables in case you need a "recharge", low beams only and use brake light and turn signals wisely. jumper the bike without the car running and leave it set 10-15 minutes to recharge then continue on your way if needed.
or find someone with a pickup and save the headaches.