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Multimeter

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Guest

Guest
No real trouble with the charging system (at least I thought) but decided to solder my stator wires and lose those pos wire connecters. While at wally world I bought a solder gun and multimeter. Checked the battery and it read 12.7. Started the bike and it actually dropped down to the area of 12.4. Raised the idle to 4,000 and if rose to 12.7. Tried to hold the bike at 6,000 and I backed it down at 13 and still rising. (neighbor just had surgery and didn't want to bother him)
I do not have trouble starting this bike. It starts the second I hit the starter button. Turn signals blink well even at idle. Don't have to charge the battery at all. Put a ground wire off the R/R awhile ago which made it so I didn't have to charge the battery once a month.
Could the multimeter be a pos? How would I check it? I just want to be one step ahead of these pos charging systems.
 
mid 14 teens? it used to be 13.8-14.2 was the standard charge voltage now I THINK 14.3-14.7 'ish on cars today.
today voltage is pcm controlled, got to love it.
 
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If you just want to test your multimeter, switch it to A/C and try an outlet in your house. Should be 115 volts.

I once bought a $3 mulitmeter from Harbor Freight, threw it away when I tried to use it to fix my dryer. We were getting weird numbers and couldn't figure it out, then I tried it in an outlet and it showed 102 volts. My father-in-law went out to his truck and got his mulitmeter and we had no problem after that. I went to Sears and got a Craftsman for ten bucks on sale.
 
I once bought a $3 mulitmeter from Harbor Freight, threw it away when I tried to use it to fix my dryer. We were getting weird numbers and couldn't figure it out, then I tried it in an outlet and it showed 102 volts.
Click to expand...

I've NEVER seen a digital VOM that was that far off, except when the battery was dead or dying.

It's pretty easy to compare your meter to a known standard, or to a pro's Fluke or other pro grade meter.
 
If you use AC as a reference, do it in the evening when demand is low. Power companies reduce voltage intermittently, especially on hot summer days when they have insufficient capacity. I once hooked up a recording voltmeter with a paper chart for 24 hours and found that voltage varied from about 105V to 120V.

I'd suggest a new alkaline battery fresh from the package.
 
themess said:
If you use AC as a reference, do it in the evening when demand is low. Power companies reduce voltage intermittently, especially on hot summer days when they have insufficient capacity. I once hooked up a recording voltmeter with a paper chart for 24 hours and found that voltage varied from about 105V to 120V.

I'd suggest a new alkaline battery fresh from the package.
Click to expand...
Thanks. That makes sense.
 
Get a MAC 710 multimeter, it does dwell, duty cycle and has an inductive digital tach (amoung your other standard meters) :)
 
Stator?

Stator?

My 81 1000 did the same thing. You should see an increase when it runs regardless of the intial readings, so even if it was not accurate you'd see it go up. I did the clymer procedure and tested the altenator output (before the regulator) and 2 legs were good ( 70 VAC or more I can't remember), but but one was like 50 volts. I bought a new stator from an aftermarket mfg reccomended on the stator pages and everthing was fine. The DC was 12.5 when off and about 14 when running a little above auto.

It could of course be the regulator but this test isolates the problem.
 
electrosport

electrosport

I just remember, I bought the electrics from electrosport and it was cheaper than oem.
 
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