More and more electrical problems, blown fuses

[chef1366]

Your battery should be closer to 13. Try cleaning the ground going to the crankcase from the negative battery post.

[Fare]

Time for a session of theorycraft...

When i installed the honda r/r, theres one random wire...I read that that wire should be spliced to the tail light wire. I have been blowing fuses only since i installed the R/R... Perhaps thats the cluprit? i'll test this theory once it finaly stops raining (seems to only rain when i want(able to) to work on the bike...)

[bubba]

Contact Duaneage about the R/R issue. got a nice Honda R/R kit from him delivered to my house for $45.00 works great, and he went above and beyond in helping me hook it up. Highly recommended:-D

[Killer2600]

12.29 not started.

gonna read it again at 5000 RPM again (and wake everyone up ><)

10MA fuse (correct one for headlight)

13.5 at 2500 RPMs, 13.7 at 5000 RPMS

I read somewhere that it might be the Headlight Terminal Connector, supose I ought to try that tomorrow...

any other Ideas?

THank you for you help thus far,

Fare

That battery voltage (12.29) is a bit low as mentioned, make sure connections are clean.

Did I read right 10MA which I take to mean 10mA, it's no wonder your blowing that fuse...more like 10A fuse is what you need.

[nabrams]

Simply disconnect the charging system from the bike, start the bike, and see if that fuse blows again. If not, you'll know your "random wire" was doing something weird. Then re-connect the charging system but leave the fuse out - start the bike and measure the voltage at the place where the fuse goes. If it's really high, then you've found the problem.

[Fare]

lol, thats alot easier than cutting the wire...

tempted to try it tonite...damn rain...

::EDIT:: I tested the theory before I went to work today and yes, the fuse doesn't blow if i disconnect the R/R. When I get home from work, i'll cut the goofy, extra, random wire and hopefully the fuse remains honky dory.

[nabrams]

Yep - Ninety percent of troubleshooting (especially with electrics) can be achieved using the simple "process-of-elimination" approach - eliminating one variable at a time and seeing what's changed. This can sometimes be time consuming, but almost always works. This approach applies to almost any machine and also software development when you don't know where to begin.

[Fare]

When installing the new(to me?), Honda r/r, mixed reports said to leave the wire disconnected and tie it to the tail light. I wont know for sure if the random wire connected to the tail light is the culprit till I disconnect it (would make since though, since the only fuse to go is the headlight fuse), but I'm optimistic to actually get to ride later today (save for the incessant rain).

and oh, do I know about process of elimination problem solving, being a computer programmer myself. That is definably not my favorite thing to do =p

[rustybronco]

The random wire as you call it (on mine it's brown) is a voltage sense wire it must be connected up to a 12v source that's always on with the key on. if you don't it won't get a voltage reference (v-ref) and can regulate at any voltage (stable or not). I found out the hard way. if you have it connected up to a source that is low in reference to the battery voltage it will regulate lower.



Sounds like the reg you bought is ether hooked up wrong or is bad, post the numbers off the reg you bought.

[Fare]

I dunno if I'm allowed to do this but...



full sized image can be found http://home.comcast.net/%7Eanthony-n...79_GS850GN.gif

I have it hooked up to the wire that is circled in blue.


I'm pretty sure the R/R is hooked up right (otherwise the stray "random" wire) because the system actually charges correctly (with the exception of the low voltage at 2500-5000 RPMs) and I get good readings according to the stator papers. If you know where i can hook it up to w/o blowing fuses, let me know ><

Thank you,

Fare

[Fare]

selfless double post update =/

Disconnected the wire, fuse doesn't blow, battery doesn't charge/go over 11.4v

cleaned up battery terminals and reconnected wire, 12.7 v at 2500 and 5000 RPM,

stator wires around 80v AC yesterday when tested, r/r = 1.46v and .47 (on the two different test, all results the same or extreamly close)

what now? the "random wire" is extended using a 12 guague wire, would that matter?

[nabrams]

OK, let's do some simple cost vs. benefit analysis:

1. You're only getting 12.7 volts at the battery at 5K RPM, so your R/R is not really working much at all - you should be getting between 13.5 and 15 volts at 5K RPM.
2. You have a fuse blowing when this R/R is connected. By the way - you still haven't measured actual voltage (as I suggested) at the fuse when the R/R is "fully" connected (with "sense" wire). The number you get there may shed more light. If it's really high, you'll know your R/R is simply not right for the bike. If it's normal you'll know that your fuse is wrong and the reason why it wasn't blowing with the R/R detached was because current was so low. Plus you can simply measure the OUTPUT of that "sense" wire - maybe it's pouring current into the system - which of course is NOT what it should be doing. If it is outputting current, maybe you've got the wires confused and that's not the sense wire.

Seems to me that the hassle is not worth the very minimal charge rate you're getting.

[rustybronco]

selfless double post update =/

what now? the "random wire" is extended using a 12 guague wire, would that matter?

No.

post the numbers off the reg you bought.

sounds like a bad r/r...

[Fare]

stator wires around 80v AC yesterday when tested, r/r = 1.46v and .47 (on the two different test, all results the same or extreamly close)

http://thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

Disconnect the RR from the bike. Switch the multimeter to the diode test position. Connect the RED multimeter lead to the RED positive output wire of the RR. Connect the BLACK multimeter-lead to one of the yellow wires. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

I got 1.46v consistently. They say that You have a reading of 1.5 V or higher on all three tests is good, and that You have a reading of 1.00 V or lower on one of the three tests is bad.

Connect the BLACK multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR. Connect the RED multimeter lead to one yellow wire. Check the reading. Repeat this procedure for the two other yellow wires.

I got .47 consistently. they say that You have a reading of around 0.50 V on all three tests is good, and that You have a reading below 0.2 V or above 1.0 V on one of the three tests is bad.

I'll test the voltage across the fuse box when I get home tonite. I'll also test the output of the random wire (or as everyone else wants to call it, sense wire =p). That would be volts, correct?

Seems to me that the hassle is not worth the very minimal charge rate you're getting.

What cost/benefits are you referring to?


would a new battery shed some light on the subject? I'll test the voltage across the battery when I get home tonite, but it could be shot from extensive testing on r/r / stator, installing/testing new lights etc. if i remember correctly, yesterday the resting voltage, right after a couple more rev tests, was in the mid 12 range. It could be different, now (giving more time to "rest"). the battery has suffered from having too high water levels, but i read that would should dump if you have too much.

Thanks again for all the advise. I'd just be a sad sap with a broken bike if it wasn't for this site.

::EDIT:: forgot to mention that I, very briefly, put a 15A fuse and it didn't bust when I turned it on, then turned it back off.

[Fare]

voltage across the fuse is 18-19v, which i'm guessing, is WAAAY too big. I don't think i'm able to measure the sense wire, since it should be shorted once the fuse goes... am i able to test it, safely, with a larger fuse?

I disconnected the r/r. which wire is the ground and which is the sense? theres a red, green and black. I might have the green and black mixed up...

::UPDATE:: I had the green and black wire mixed up. They are switched, and system works perfectly now. no blown fuses, good voltage levels. Officialy add me to the "Idiots of The GSR"

Thank you,

Fare