It idles fine, the choke works correctly, the carbs were dipped and as far as I can tell it is all stock. Should I try adjusting the clutch cable first? I have done this once already because the clutch was stuck a little, I took all the slack out. Or should I pull the engine side cover off and look at the clutch basket and the condition of the plates.
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Is my clutch slipping???
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kb9lae
Is my clutch slipping???
If you have been following my other thread "starting to look promising". I recently finished reviving my 88 GS450L and have noticed that when I give the engine throttle, while driving and in any gear, sometimes the engine will rev up on it's own and it seems like I just pulled the clutch cable. I've noticed that if I let it gently accelerate I don't have this problem.
It idles fine, the choke works correctly, the carbs were dipped and as far as I can tell it is all stock. Should I try adjusting the clutch cable first? I have done this once already because the clutch was stuck a little, I took all the slack out. Or should I pull the engine side cover off and look at the clutch basket and the condition of the plates.Tags: None
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twistedwankel
There should be 1/16" slack in cable measured at hand grip.
I oiled my cable as indicated by owner's manual 6 drops engine oil and it really loosened it up. (It was merely slipping under full (WOT) throttle not all the time when I hit the gas.)
Others say to totally remove the cable and spray it with chain wax which takes longer but certainly works well.
Certainly if it is still slipping the clutches can get varnished and will need attention. You don't weigh 550lbs do you?8-[
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kb9lae
That is exactly what's happening with mine. If I give it too much throttle it slips and it feels like I just pulled the clutch in.
So I guess I should look at the cable first.
And to answer your last question, I weigh 175lbs.\\/
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fgh
Do you have a manual for this bike? If so use it and do the prescribed cable adjustment procedure. There are three points to adjusting the clutch. The two ends of the cable and the push rod preload probably under a cover on the front sproket.
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kb9lae
Well, since I went over budget getting everything in running order. I chose to make a temporary fix to my clutch. I pulled the clutch plates, sanded all the plates lightly, and shimmed the springs. When that was done adjusted the clutch pushrod, (the screw with the stop nut), and the cable.
All that work payed off it feels like a differant bike now. No more slipping if I want to give it some throttle!\\/ Well I guess it wasn't really work it just really took a little time. :-D
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Originally posted by kb9lae View PostWell, since I went over budget getting everything in running order. I chose to make a temporary fix to my clutch. I pulled the clutch plates, sanded all the plates lightly, and shimmed the springs. When that was done adjusted the clutch pushrod, (the screw with the stop nut), and the cable.
All that work payed off it feels like a differant bike now. No more slipping if I want to give it some throttle!\\/ Well I guess it wasn't really work it just really took a little time. :-D
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Looks like he searched the forums and got what he needed without the advice of us Suk bums.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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kb9lae
Yes the search feature works, I use it quite often.:-D It just doesn't always give you what you want:shock:.
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