Greg
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Driveability explanation.
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Anonymous
Driveability explanation.
I am new in the game of motorcycle rebuilding and have a 1980 1100E. I am replaceing my after market 4 into 2 exhaust and replaceing it with a 4 into 1 Vance and Hine megaphone. I am then going to re-jet the carbs with a Dyno-jet kit. I keep reading about the loss of DRIVEABILITY but do not know exactly what it means. Could some explan it to me in laymans terms and what I can expect to get from the mod. that I am preforming.
GregTags: None
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Anonymous
Re: Driveability explanation.
Originally posted by Greg HoodI am new in the game of motorcycle rebuilding and have a 1980 1100E. I am replaceing my after market 4 into 2 exhaust and replaceing it with a 4 into 1 Vance and Hine megaphone. I am then going to re-jet the carbs with a Dyno-jet kit. I keep reading about the loss of DRIVEABILITY but do not know exactly what it means. Could some explan it to me in laymans terms and what I can expect to get from the mod. that I am preforming.
Greg
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Anonymous
Sorry I thought I had given all information. I am changeing my stock airfilters out to install UNI pods.
Greg
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humhead
Driveability is......
Driveability includes a lot of factors. Some of these are: Ease of starting /warmup, smooth idle, linear power delivery & good fuel mileage. The mods you list will improve the engine's airflow, both intake & exhaust.
You'll have to increase the amount of fuel by changing the jetting of your carbs. I'll leave it to the more experienced to offer jetting advice. Good luck!
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redliner1973
Also with this set-up, you will have slightly less low end torque, but more upper RPM torque. :twisted:
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billp
I have an 82 1100E with a V+H megaphone.
Driveability won't be a problem, but after a half hour the drone from the pipe gets old.
bill
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Anonymous
I believe driveability refers to the way the a suped up bike behaves when off the track.
This would include the bike only responding to the throttle only when rapidly cranked to wide open, the bikes inability to maintain a slow and even speed, and its over responsiveness to the throttle when going through tricky corners (lifting the front wheel just as you are about to grind a peg). Basically, the bike will try to kill you at every turn because it has too much power to be babied around. :P
Steve
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Forum GuruCharter Member
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Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
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- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Driveability.
Driveability is like the road manners the bike has. How it starts,warms up,idles,throttle response,powerband,smoothness of acceleration and top end. If the jetting is not correct,you can expect various degrees of surging,backfiring/spitting and overheating if too lean. If too rich,you can expect poor throttle response/bogging,black exhaust,poor fuel mileage and fouling plugs. Jetting can involve a LOT of trial and error. If you finally get it right you will have more power and not lose significant manners/mileage,but you may have to live with some minor annoyances. If you do a poor job of jetting, you can ruin an engine,or at the least drive around hating how the bike runs and wishing you never messed with it. KK.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Anonymous
IF you're going the jet kit route 80% of the guesswork is out of the picture. The other 20% is the fine tuning of the settings. The dynojet booklet gives you the base settings to go off of and gives you tips for too rich, lean or whatever to dial in what your bike needs. Every bike has different modifications, mileage and so forth which determines how much fine tuning you need to do.
Anyway, the most obvious "drivability" problem you may find is a longer warm up time because of the cold fresh air through the open filters.Other than that you should be fine.Oh, and you'll notice a slight decrease in fuel economy due to the fact that you are doing a performance mod and not a fuel eco. mod.
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Anonymous
I don't know weather to be excited or scared to death. I am putting the Vance & Hind 4 into 1 on because the 4 into 2 pipes had were rusted through and had to be replaced. I thought rather than getting a new set of 4 into 2 I would add a little extra power and get the 4 into 1. I have the original air box the UNI pods and also have the Dyno-jet kit with stages 1&3. Since I am not planing to race my 1100E and would like a little more power but its not really necessary what would be the best and easist set up for my limited knowledge.
Greg :? :?
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Anonymous
Originally posted by billpI have an 82 1100E with a V+H megaphone.
Driveability won't be a problem, but after a half hour the drone from the pipe gets old.
bill
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Anonymous
Greg,
Be excited!
Take your time with the jetting and testing and it will work fine. The Dyno-Jet guys know what they're talking about so follow their instructions. If you can't get the bike tuned in, don't beat your head against the wall like I did. Look for something else that's wrong. It took me three years to figure out the cam timing was too far off due to a stretched chain.
Steve
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Originally posted by billpI have an 82 1100E with a V+H megaphone.
Driveability won't be a problem, but after a half hour the drone from the pipe gets old.
bill
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Anonymous
I have never herd the megaphone are they really that loud. I had a set of MAC 4 into 2 pipes and blew a baffel out of one last summer. I took the baffel out of the other side and spent the rest of the summer sounding like a Harley(or as close as a Suzuki can) It was LOUD but it was no to bad. Turned a lot of head though. :twisted: Will the megaphone be as loud. :?
Greg
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Anonymous
Originally posted by Greg HoodI have never herd the megaphone are they really that loud. I had a set of MAC 4 into 2 pipes and blew a baffel out of one last summer. I took the baffel out of the other side and spent the rest of the summer sounding like a Harley(or as close as a Suzuki can) It was LOUD but it was no to bad. Turned a lot of head though. :twisted: Will the megaphone be as loud. :?
Greg
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