Best Oil To Use

[ryonker]

I am sure this has been answered somewhere, so please forgive me for asking this again.

I know on my oil cap it says 10w 40 for the oil in my bike. I have heard others say I should go with something like a 20W 50. Is there a prefered brand of oil that someone would recommend?

Thanks again for putting up with my basic questions.

Rick
79 GS 750L

[DimitriT]

Everyone seems to have some opinion on this. There must be a dozen threads over the last couple of years.

Several of us go with Rotella 10w40 synthetic. It's auto oil but doesn't have any
harmful additives.

[ryonker]

Where do you get Rotella?

Is this a brand that you can find at automotive stores?

[bonanzadave]

Dont know about the best but it works for me. $22 for 4 qts and a filter.

[rustybronco]

No such thing as the best oil, it's what the owner prefers.
rotella t 15w40
rotella t 5w40
amsoil 20w50

search the threads there is a lot of info on this board.

[Dave8338]

Dont know about the best but it works for me. $22 for 4 qts and a filter.

GREAT staging, Dave...almost looks like you putting together a "print ad" for Valvoline and FRAM! :-D Using your specific combo wil never leave you with a lube-related failure; at least as it pertains to the bike, that is! \\/

[Nessism]

I'm a fan of diesel engine oil for motorcycles, much cheaper than motorcycle specific oils. As mentioned above, Shell Rotella is good stuff. The regular dino stuff is 15W-40 and the synthetic is 5W-40. Both work well. The synthetic will last longer, since it doesn't breakdown as fast, and protect better is the heat of summer - synthetic hold up better to high temps.

[Gary Lich]

As mentioned in this and all previous oil threads, opinions will range from "You should always use motorcycle specific or synthetic oil that costs $6.00 a quart" to "You should just use regular old 10W-40 car oil that can be found for $1.99 a quart" (which happens to be my preference after 36 years of riding). For what it is worth I was involved with a oil study at a company is used to work for. We took new air cooled engines apart, measured everything possible, then reasembled them. We then ran them on dynomometers for many hours (each engine with a specific oil ranging from run of the mill regular to the high end synthetic stuff). Upon disassembly and remeasurement of the engine components the results showed no statistical difference in wear.

It all boils down to what bothers you more...worrying that cheap oil wil cause more problems, or worrying that you are wasting money on expensive oil.

[rustybronco]

For what it is worth I was involved with a oil study at a company is used to work for. We took new air cooled engines apart, measured everything possible, then reasembled them. We then ran them on dynomometers for many hours (each engine with a specific oil ranging from run of the mill regular to the high end synthetic stuff). Upon disassembly and remeasurement of the engine components the results showed no statistical difference in wear.

Looking for YOUR opinion, not to start an argument. how did the additive package hold up under sheer conditions? the only reason I don't use quaker state 10w40 was the shift got clunky/hard to find neutral after 800-900 miles. where as rotella "t" 15w40 (haven't tried with triple protection) held up 1,900-2000 miles and amsoil 20w40 was going strong after 4,000 miles.

[GSBuilder]

Straight 30W! right out of the lawnmower. no, I Think Amsoil is best, My old Lazarus gets Napa brand 10w40... I know, hypocrisy to not give it what I think is best, but when it leaks so much....

[Nessism]

There’s a internet forum specific for the purpose of discussing internal combustion engine oil - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php Those people eat, drink, and sleep oil, and opinions are not very well accepted over there – bring your chemical analysis report or stay home.

One thing I learned from these guys is that synthetic oil does not lubricate better per say, except in extreme heat – such as air cooled motorcycles, but it does last quite a bit longer. Long life helps mitigate the high cost. Motorcycles chew up the long chain additives in the oil and shear it down – reducing viscosity. Synthetic oil requires less of these additives since the base stock is more stable. The reason I like diesel engine oil is because the additive package is more robust – good for motorcycles (not recommended for auto engines though because the additives are not good for catalyst life).

In the end the most important thing is to just change the oil.

[Gary Lich]

Looking for YOUR opinion, not to start an argument. how did the additive package hold up under sheer conditions? the only reason I don't use quaker state 10w40 was the shift got clunky/hard to find neutral after 800-900 miles. where as rotella "t" 15w40 (haven't tried with triple protection) held up 1,900-2000 miles and amsoil 20w40 was going strong after 4,000 miles.

No data on how the oil "additive package" faired..we simply measured mechanical wear to the engine components.....

[BassCliff]

Good grief.

[PAULYBOY]

Ness mentions diesel rated oils. We had a tech for Redline oil that owned an 82 300SD mercedes. Every time he would bring it in for oil and fuel filter changes (3k on oil, 7.5k on fuel filters) he would have our mechanics save samples of the old liquids. He would then have his lab analyze them. He moved to Atlanta about 8 years ago, but still keeps in touch. He has 900,000 miles on the car, and still drives it to all his job related destinations. He uses nothing but Redline oil, and Redline fuel additives for antigelling, and cetane booster. He swears by the formulation of the synthetic oil they make.

[Art Lacroix]

new amsoil after 01 Apr?

Has anyone tried it? it's supposed to be vastly improved shear properties