.png "Powered by vBulletin")
Hi there all first time on here! I replaced the stater and R/R and did what everyone said to do run the stator 3 legs direct to R/R and run ground from R/R to batery all was great bike started it was charging I smiled and said I cant wait to go for a ride and the shut the bike down. Then I went to start the bike and I had lost all the power to all the lights on the control panel ,nutral,gears ,lights, headlights,I taped on the starter cylanoid and everthing kicked on and the bike started so I shut it down and go to start it again and I had lost all the power again to all the lights Etc Etc so I tap on stater cylanoid but I can not get it to do it again would the starter cylanoid keep the bike from getting power to the control panel when I jump the cylanoid the stater cranks over and the nutral light starts going as it is cranking. but none odf the other lights light up. Help please help I just want to ride!
-
-
Have you checked the fuses? -
Welcome aboard.
Electrical problems, 90% of the time, come down to corrosion at connectors and bad/incomplete grounds. A close associate cause is a bad/faulty battery. In order to sort these issues you should have a digital multimeter, 12 volt test probe and sandpaper to clean contacts along with dialectic grease to keep connections corrosion free.
Check all your fuses and the the connectors coming into and going out of the fuse block. Clean any dirty or obviously corroded connectors and replace as maybe necessary.
Clean both battery terminals, the battery ground to frame or engine and the power lead from battery to solenoid. Clean all connections on the solenoid and the lead where it attaches to the starter motor.
Open the right hand control module and clean the contacts for the kill switch and starter button.Follow the leads from the control module to the headlight bucket and clean the connectors that go into the wiring harness. Do the same for the leads connected to the ignition switch.
On the clutch side check & clean the connector to the safety switch and on the other end where it joins to the wiring harness.
Locate the safety switch on the side stand and clean that as well.
Check the level of fluid in your battery and add distilled water if necessary to bring to the mark. Trickle charge the battery to a full charge (12.7 volts or better) and test with your multimeter that it maintains the charge for a reasonible period of time. If it discharges quickly (i.e. a few volts in minutes) it is defective and a replacement is in order.
Dollars to donuts one of these connectors or ground connections is a problem. There is tons of information on these issues so do some reading and get stuck in. You'll sort it.
Good luck with the project and keep us up to date on your progress.
cheers,
Spyug.Last edited by Guest; 06-04-2008, 02:58 PM.Comment
-
Well fuse looked good
Well I did as you all said and started at the batery and starting tracking all the wires back. I found a fuse that looked brand new but was blown I only found it by testing each fuse so all is well and the bike runs great. Thanks all for the advice this is a great forum!!!Comment
-
Hee Haw Howdy!
Hi Mr. johhnnyh,
Sorry I'm late. Here is your mega-welcome!
Dear fellow GS rider,
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
***********************************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
Comment
Comment