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How do I to remove stripped philips head screw

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    How do I to remove stripped philips head screw

    I am working on my '82 GS-750TZ. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined (as in little experience). I'm attempting to pull the carbs so they can be cleaned. I tried to remove the bracket that holds the choke cable. Despite being very careful, the two screws securing the bracket stripped out.

    Here's my technique for removing screws in this situation. I used a quality 6" Phillips head (to reach through the frame) inserted into an interchangeable handle. I inserted the tip into the screw, applied counter-clockwise pressure while tapping the top of the handle with a plastic-head hammer. The hammer shock goes down the screw and allows very a momentary release of pressure on the threads. Eventually the threads just let go and the screw comes loose.

    In the case of the 2 bracket screws, the metal in the head gave before the threads. My fault - no doubt - too much pressure.

    How do I remove them now and are they a standard size that can be easily obtained?

    #2
    I believe the bike bandit microfiche should have the screws to replace as well as a couple other sites.

    I like to use an impact screwdriver for tuff screws like you have. Is it possible to just disconect the choke and remove the carbs as a unit, with the bracket attached? I think it should be. If so wait till there off the bike and either grab them with vice grips or cut a slot and use a standard screw driver.

    Comment


      #3
      All of us here have had similar stuck/stripped screw problems in the past, so not to worry. Generally the best tool is the impact driver-even with partially stripped heads. The tips of the driver tend to bite much better onto the screw than an ordinary screwdriver can; you can pick one up for around $15 at almost any hardware store. Once you get a stripped screw removed, if possible I would replace it with a hex one.

      Good luck!

      You also might want to check this out: http://thegsresources.com/garage/gs_extractscrew.htm

      Comment


        #4
        The choke cable has a little clamp at the very end of the inner cable, but the whole thing can be done after it's away from the engine. Impact driver will remove screws. Spray it with PB Blaster a little while before you try the tough ones.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          You could also get a 'screw extractor" from Canadian Tire or wherever, and its basically a drill bit with reverse threads so it bores in to the head and gets stuck and it will remove the screw. You might need to use a wrench on the extractor to turn the screw out when it bites if your drill isnt strong enough.

          Comment


            #6
            I'll second the impact driver - it does something similar to what you're doing manually with a normal screwdriver, but it does it better. Best $7 I've spent so far.

            The screws are common. Half the screws on my bottom gang plate were almost completely stripped by the PO, so once I got my rack apart I brought one of them over the Ace Hardware and replaced all 8 with stainless hex cap screws. Could have done the upper plate as well (different size screws) but was feeling thrifty at the time and the old screws were still in perfect shape.

            Edit: Just re-read your post and realized were talking about different "brackets", sorry. Same rules apply, but you can undo the choke cable from the carbs and remove them from the bike first. Pounding on installed carbs with an impact driver sounds sketchy. And those screws are also at ACE hardware, but it can be cheaper in the long run to go on Ebay or some other place and buy a stainless carb kit for your model. The kit for mine was about $10+shipping with all Diaphragm Cover screws, float bowl screws, and some others, I think.
            Last edited by Guest; 06-12-2008, 04:12 PM.

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              #7
              Do yourself a favor and buy an extractor kit and hex replacment screws. Just drill/extract those poor excuses for fastening devices and replace them now. That way they don't give you any more trouble.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by buster View Post
                Is it possible to just disconnect the choke and remove the carbs as a unit, with the bracket attached? I think it should be. If so wait till there off the bike and either grab them with vice grips...
                or needle nose vice-grips.

                pictures can help a lot, just like being there.
                De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                Comment


                  #9
                  I agree with the other suggestions. My philips head screws (on motor cover) stripped even with an impact driver using a phillips driver end. However, I chiselled a slot in the head and used the impact driver with the slotted bit. This tended to grab better (maybe it gives more leverage on the outer edge of the head?), and sure enough, they came out. If that didn't work, I was planning on using a screw extractor, but I know from experience that those often do not work the way they should. Good luck.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                    or needle nose vice-grips.

                    pictures can help a lot, just like being there.
                    Those screws stripped for me as well and thats how I got them off. Also there is some play on it so take the carbs about half out and then remove the screws.

                    I got some new stainless steel screws to do all outside top covers of the carbs and them two that hold the choke bracket.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Feelin' your pain

                      A rusty 30 year old screw...

                      Apply PBlaster...might as well, it will make any of the following easier...

                      In order try
                      1) Screwdriver
                      2) Impact (I found the manual one doesn't fit in a lot of places, I wish I had pnuematics), plus using a ball peen instead of claw hammer takes a little less room
                      3) Extractor (I've tried the weird reversible ones, Grab-Its, but the classic pilot hole + extractor bit are the bomb....Lowes has Kobalt ones that I used for air screws among other things), Tap wrench handle for the extractor is nice, though I wish I had something a little more compact at times (can't always turn the tap wrench)
                      4) Buy a bike with less rust :-D but that wouldn't be as rewarding I suppose...back to all my stuck screws...

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